The Journey North. Day 16. Monday 7th May 2018
From: Balnakeil Bay Durness To: Grunaird Bay GR: NG953899 Mileage: 109
Slight rain on reveille but it soon cleared, a bit grey today.
The compass needle has swung. Today we turn South. There are different views and
aspects today as we head towards
Ardvreck castle. It’s a ruin really. It stands on the South of Loch
Assynt. Its more of a tower house. We stop look and decide we will give it a miss.
Lots of views of sea lochs and those low islands in the bay.
Sandy beaches are more prominent but not as many as I thought. You probably need
to drive off the main A road to find em.
The Kylesku Bridge |
View from the Kylesku Hotel onto Loch |
Langoustines. |
Loch Glencoul at Kylesku |
I had planned lunch at The Kylesku Hotel on Loch Glendubh
joined to Lochs and ??? This is where in WW2 the Royal Navy trained its X-Craft
and midget sub warfare crews. Also from here they sailed for the Norwegan
Fjords and to sink the Tirpitz. That task eventually being accomplished by RAF 9 and 617 (Dambusters) Squadrons.
Lunch was £85. We had
the best table in the house. I had langoustines and Jackie grilled fish with
lentil and cous cous salad. I ordered a cheese board she said is that for three
“No, just me.” “No I mean do you want three cheeses.” Strewth that was £14.
Whilst I prevaricated she said “I’ll get you two, cheddar and brie.” “Do you
not have any local cheeses?” “No, sorry.” Considering they made such play of
everything that was served on the menu was caught shot trapped or?? From the
area I wondered about the cheeses. Pretty poor.
Jackie had consumed two locally brewed G+Ts I had a soft
drink. My starter Haggis balls. £85
Drive on in to Ullapool 1788 designed by Thomas Telfod for
the British Fisheries Society as infrastructure for the Herring industry. Which
my notes tell me was a large ‘town’. I think not. OK its My Bank Holiday but
still apart from the local petrols station which had at least 4 pumps a major
player then and a queue onto the rd a 12 motorbikes filling and cars waiting on
a blind bend I didn’t feel inclined to refuel there.
Turning off the A835 at Braemore we took the A832 on the
South shore of Loch Maree and once again started to climb on the coast road to
Gairloch. WE had covered about 100 odd miles today. No distance not even
Plymouth to Exeter but perhaps up here the amount of consentration needed on
these roads especially the single track makes for tiring driving. In fact there
hadn’t been that much single track today. The roads were getting noticeable
wider and better conditions.
We dropped down off the headland and there before us was a
sandy beach bay with a large parking area set back off the road. “That’s the
very fellows for me.” In we swung and dropped anchot. Whilst I chatted to our
new elderly couple neighbours Jackie had switched on the gas and had a brew
going. By the time I arrived inside my T had gone cold. What a lovely couple.
Scottish but a delight. Must have been in their 70s.
Wild camp in a small car park opposite. |
Beautiful evening we walked along the beach. By the time we
got onto the beach only across the road I thought about the bubbly we had
brought for John O Groats and hadn’t used and thought about doubling back for
it but decided no. Too much trouble.
Returning to the truck we ate a rather light meal of salad
and cheese washed down in my case by a can of Thatchers Haze.
2130 hrs. We hit the sack I was aware of Jackie reading then
that was it.