The Journey North. Day 3. Tue 24 Apr 2018
From: Glenridding. To:
Hellvelyn and Striding Edge Mileage: 000
We were away by 0945hrs. The day
was sunny with clear blue skies. It would not last.
We exited the campsite, turned
right and started straight uphill. Mercifully, we soon picked up a path that
contoured around to the old mines. This ran parallel with the sheep wall and in
inclement weather would be a great aide to navigation. Once we joined the path
from the mines/YHA we knew that a further ninety minutes would bring us to Red
Tarn. This lake sits beneath Hellvelyn and is invariably topped up with water
running off the ‘horseshoe’ that surrounds it.
Reaching Red Tarn the wind had
picked up and it was cold. Enough that Mike needed to put on woolly balaclava
and gloves! Jackie had already decided before we set out that she would not
climb up to the Hellvelyn Plateau. “I’ve done it once, I have nothing to
prove.” She would say. “Well I’ve done it twice and I’m not sure I need to
prove anything to anyone either.” I replied. “That’s a joke.” she snorted.
We had a quick coffee each from the duty flask,
adjusted our bergans and as agreed I continued the climb up to Swirrel Edge
to gain the plateau and Jackie retraced her
steps back down to Gillside Farm Camping. Jackie, once more attempting to talk
me out of the walk as the summit was now shrouded in mist and the Met was not
good for the remainder of the day. We made comms arrangements, very
intermittent here in the hills and valleys, I ensured she was confident of the
route back and with a “Of course you might never see me again.” As my parting
comment, I took the high road and she the low road.
The wind was pretty strong on the
path up to Swirrel Edge. Once upon it, the path disappears and one is scrambling
up through the rocks. There is a sheer drop on either side. You do need to keep
your wits about you and a firm hold of the rocks! The rock was wet and slippery from the mist and fine
drizzle. In one or two places, as I looked back down, the thought did cross my
mind were these the right conditions for this today? Especially after two
rather interesting leaps of faith. Always keep three points of contact on the
rock!
Out of the mist descending
gingerly towards me I could discern a couple, seemingly in their thirties. As is the way
in the hills you usually pass a few pleasantries. He asked me “Are you going
up?” Trying to remove as much sarcasm as I could from my reply I said
“Strangely yes.” “Well, if I was you I would turn around now and descend. It’s not
very pleasant up there.” My reply was simply “It’s no fun coming up this route
and I don’t fancy going back down it. I’m about fifty feet from the plateau
now, I’ll nip up, plant my boots on it then consider my options.” “You might
run out of options by then.” The lady replied joining the conversation. “That
wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had my back against the wall.” I said with a
smile, “You guys take it easy.” Within a few minutes I was on the plateau.
The full force of the wind hit me
first and then the cold. Visibility was down to twenty meters. When I was last
up here in similar conditions some years ago I almost took the wrong ‘path’ off
the plateau in the mist. I mean the wrong path, there was no path only a sheer
drop. I was determined not to repeat that again, so made it double quick, to
first, the cross wall seat, there is always cover from the wind in one of its
quarters, where upon someone popped up and near scared me to death. “I thought
I was the only fool up here today.” I said in a voice slightly higher than
normal.” “Tha’s not, there be quite a few ol’ fools up ‘ere t’day.” Replied the
Jack in the box. “Well I’d love to stop and chat but I need to get off this
feature PDQ, be seeing you.” And off I went.
I could just about make out a
path down to which I hoped was Striding Edge through the mist. There is a steep
climb down towards the ‘edge’. In the rain, now it was quite slippery.
I made sure the boots were locked
in before I let go with the hands. It was a bit slow at first but gradually I
lost height. As I descended I could see various couples and small groups
approaching. Climbing up towards me. The ‘edge’ now quite distinct in places.
Every now and then one would need to scramble up through a small gully to gain
a crest to drop down the other side. The wind seemed to have abated somewhat
but there was now a fine rain. At what point do I don my waterproof over
trousers I thought?
A couple were climbing up towards
me. I recognized them as having shot past Jackie and I earlier. Both were
wearing running trousers and lightweight cagoules. He had on a mountain
marathon nylon day sac. “Hello again.” She smiled. “Hi,” I replied “I’ve lost
the wife.” She was mortified for a moment until I explained that Jackie had
turned back at Red Tarn. They, I noticed had decided against Swirrel Edge and
had come up the slightly easier, only slightly, Birkhouse Moor approach.
Not long after a group of old farts passed me as
I stood to one side of the track. They looked as though they had taken the
wrong turn off the 18th green. Tiltleist hats and golfing
windcheaters was their dress code with running shoes. It would transpire that
only two of the four made the traverse and horseshoe.
Now I was off the ‘difficult’ bit
and on my way to ‘the gap in the wall’. Here I put on my over trousers, it was
raining hard, had a quick sarnie and a mug of coffee from the flask and left a message on Jackie’s phone as agreed.
Not really much good as where we were camped in the Ice Cream Lorry there was
no signal reception. It was now all downhill on initially a pretty level path
back to Red Tarn then swing down to retrace the route up. Looking across the
valley I could see a couple of different groups about a couple of miles ahead.
I thought ‘Let’s smoke ‘em’ and started doubling. All went well until arriving
at the Red Tarn, Swirrel Edge junction. I was stopped by two guys who seemed to
recognize me. They had bottled it on the last climb up towards the plateau they
told me. It was too difficult for them. “No shame in admitting that.” I said “But
how did you get here before me?” “Oh we scrambled down that gulley”, pointing
away across the valley, “not long after you stood aside on the path for us.”
The golfers. “Forgive me for saying but I don’t believe it, I would never have
done that it’s far too dangerous.” I suggested. “Tell us about it.” they
chorused. “We came down on our backsides hanging on for grim death.” With that
they proudly bent over and showed me their wet, earth stained trousers. I think
it was earth. They were waiting for the other two in their party that had
continued. I bade them farewell and mindful of the two groups up ahead I was
determined ‘to smoke’ doubled away.
It occurred to me that only a few
days ago we had been speaking to some friends of Tracey’s who were visiting
them. Tracey was out banging out a quick forty mile bike ride before their
arrival, she was late. They talked about her competitive spirit. I said “I
don’t know who she gets that from. Neither Jackie or I are competitive.” Yet
here I was doubling down a mountain path, in the rain after four hours of
uphill climbing trying to overtake a couple of groups of people just so I could
say to myself. I smoked ‘em. I did as well. Childish I know. Sometimes you need
these challenges to keep you going. Well some of us do. I wonder what Freud
would make of that?
Just entering the campsite and
there is Jackie making her way over to the showers. “What no tearful heroes
welcome for me?” “Don’t be daft, you’ve only been up the hill, put the kettle
on I’ll be back for a brew in a moment.”
1845hrs. Now curried and combed
we took the Glenridding Beck path down through the woods towards Glenridding
village. Dave Hargreaves, who was here a few weeks ago recommended Fellbites
Café Restaurant. When we arrived, today Tuesday, was the only day they closed at
1700hrs! Back up the hill on the other side of the river to The Travellers Rest
pub. “Mind the paint”.
There were ten people in the bar
and that pretty much filled it. Whilst I ordered, Jackie went and arm wrestled
with some gorilla and managed to get us a couple of seats. It was all pretty
good humoured stuff. Mainly fellow hill walkers. Needing to build up my carbs I
tucked into a Beef burger and chips with bacon, egg, salad, coleslaw, pineapple
and onion rings. I am ashamed to admit, I could not eat it all. Jackie
meanwhile was tucking into Curry, chips and rice. Even this far down the valley,
off the hill, there was neither phone nor internet. We made our way back to the
truck. It was a lovely evening. No wind and clear skies.
A great day. Tick that one off
the list.
