Thursday, 27 July 2017

Day 43 Tuesday 11th July 2017      From: Rochefort.  To: Les Combrands
Mile: 16482-16530       Daily: 48         Meteo: Hot and sunny.             
Today we are to visit with Lal and Andy at their converted French Ferme. This is in the Charente Maritime region and should only be about an hour’s drive away. We had to return the two security door tags to reception and Mike made a point of saying how much we had enjoyed our stay, also commenting on the good works they were doing in providing various eco solutions for us visitors. This surprisingly brought a smile to the three female staff members on duty. It might also have been my grasping for the correct words in French.
We were headed for the small hamlet of Les Combrands. This lies to the W of Niort. We would drive N to meet with the N11 just outside La Rochelle then swing E as far as Courcon then continue N to La Ronde then W to Taugon then to 31 Combrands. Lal and Andy had promised to tie various coloured balloons at the last couple of road junctions to guide us in. We were, after all, in bandit country. With Jackie navigating, it was no problem. The only issue was accessing their gate onto the property. There was a telephone cable dangling far too low to give me clearance and I would need a couple of shunts to get off the narrow farm road and into the field.

Andy and Lal appeared, they had been sunning themselves on their chairs relaxing. Andy had the low wire problem solved in a flash. Ball of string, small stone tied on the end, loop around the offended line and hoist it up out of the way and tie it off. Simples.
No sooner had we alighted than Lal had a gin and tonic for Jackie and a beer for me. We sat for a while and exchanged a few stories about recent adventures. Then Andy took me on a trip of the farm. The old farm building was owned by a friend in Plymouth and ‘The Steers’ had been coming here for the last six years. There were a few outbuildings, medium sized stone sheds in various states of repair, a cattle feeding shippon and another attached barn. Most of these were in an advanced state of deterioration.
This ‘marais land’ is basically reclaimed marsh. As such the ground gets wet in the winter months and dries out considerably in the summer. Some of the cracks and holes in the ‘field’ attached to the house you could lose a Land Rover and trailer in. If that was not bad enough there was ample evidence of ground and structural movement on the property. Andy had noted much deteriation in the last six years.
I had seen photos taken two years ago of Andy working on the roof of the attached barn. Now all that remained was a few wooden beams. Walls which he had rebuilt that same period or attempted to repair had since fallen over. Other walls were bowed out, their capping stones loose. Door frames no longer sat square and shutters could be seen hanging from rusted hinges.
The main house was in itself a fine structure. Plenty of space within the various rooms. The kitchen / dining room was huge. This would be where we would take meals if not outside and where Lal would entertain neighbours.

Evidence of Andy’s latest self-imposed works were obvious. He had been pruning with a chain saw the fifty meters or so row of trees that marked the drive down to the house. Many of these trees were ‘shaky plums’. That, to you townies is an edible plum tree, that when you gently shake a branch, the ripe plums fall. They were delicious. Not a sour plum anywhere. In addition, there were pear and quince trees all heavily laden with fruit. Surprisingly no apple trees.  Away in the far corner behind the house Andy had piled the old boughs and branches ready for a winter burn. It was as large as a sponsored bonfire for November the fifth. Quite who would carry out this task was uncertain. The owner who visited twice, maybe three times a year, was not that ‘handy’ and as many of the visiting friends and colleagues were here on holiday they adopted the line of thought that any ‘work’ around the house was someone else’s job.He had been pruning, with a chain saw

Bet you can't guess what's for lunch!

Soon we boys were called in from our architectural detective work as dinner was ready. Another feast following hard on the heels of a beautiful green salad lunch. After which we were taken through the rear blue gate, over ‘our’ small bridge over the tiny canal and onto the dyke. This dyke separated one small canal from the other. We walked for half a mile to what seemed at first glance a rather ramshackle dwelling. This building, it transpired was owned by Bernard.


Look closely, evidence of one of Andy's BBQ's.

An English speaking Frenchman Lal hoped we would meet later  in the week. It belonged to his father many years ago. Bernard now in retirement visits weekends and enjoys the peace and solitude it offers. He was gradually renovating the property. Perhaps a two up two down. There was no running water, no drains, no electricity and no sewer connection. Not even a fosse septique. Neither would there ever be. Lal had brought us here to see the catfish ‘Poisson chat’ which lived here in hundreds. They were a nuisance as they were predatory on all other fish in these tiny canals. Alas today none were evident. In part due to the corn having been cut in the field opposite and a layer of cereal dust lay thick over the water. That, and the green algae.
We returned to the farm house. Where we sat in the warmth of the last of the sun’s rays and had a quiet drink. It was then that Pascal arrived. He lives in a ‘cottage’ the next but one house up. Next door was virtually derelict as Madame had been taken into care and the son who usually called around to cut the grass and tend to the veg patch had himself died. Heart attack. In this climate mother nature soon re-establishes her dominance.
Strangely Pascal’s plot and rear garden was linked via a gate with Lal and Andy’s property beyond ‘the hanger’ on the farmhouse land, where Pascal kept his Massey Ferguson. It was a habit that he would call around most evenings for a chat. Now Pascal’s English was on a par with Andy’s French. Non-existent. Lal by her own admission was struggling with her French. However, as men, and indeed women do they managed to communicate. Especially when last year Pascal needed some muscle to rebuild his bridge over the second canal to cross to his veg plot. Whom did he call upon? Andy.
We were introduced as ‘amis’, Pascal was offered some rose and we sat for another hour chatting. How? Nobody knew but it was all very pleasant. Soon Pascal told us he must go as he had work in the morning and needed to be up at 0500hrs. We believe he assisted a local mason, did various odd jobs, including cutting the grass on ‘the field’ beside Lal’s house. He would also coppice trees on his land to the rear of his small holding which he would sell for fire wood. He promised to call again tomorrow evening after work.  It was soon bedtime.