Sunday, 23 July 2017

Day 37 Meschers   To:  Meschers  Open:16381  Close:  16381
                            
Date:  Wednesday 5th July 2017       Weather: Sunny and hot.   Mile:  000



Awoke to light rain pattering on the roof. Unbelievable as we had to open all the windows last night to get more air in and for the sake of modesty, whose? I know not, we threw a sheet over ourselves. By the time Jackie had made the first brew of the day, it had passed and it was bright sun again.


Mike took a quick walk to the marina to see if our friend in the Kayak who was camping nearby had put in. The tide was well out but he could follow the channel out into the Gironde to continue his journey. I could not see him.
Returning to the truck Jackie had breakfast on the go. Today we are on Momma’s Instant porridge with raisins and cranberries. Now I know there are those of you who will throw their hands up in horror at the thought but these individual packets can be tipped into a mug with some added boiling water and hey presto it’s not a bad bit of grub. Handy in a bergan if weight is a consideration!

We decided we would walk the short distance into the town centre to get some ‘fresh’. As I stood outside waiting for Jackie, an old Netherlander registered Hymer reverses in. They are an older couple. I look across and in my best Dutch accent say ‘Good dag’ He replies with “You are English” I reply “Yes, no need for me to speak to you in any other language all Netherlanders speak good English”. He laughs, “Well I do but my wife does not”. Forty minutes later I must break away from him as I tell him the shops will be closed for lunch and we need to buy salad items. I promise we will speak later. He is a great character with a good sense of humour.

This date commemorates The Battle of Mang Yang pass.

It was the last battle of the first Indo-China war. Costly to the French!

The lock gates are still closed as we approach. On the far side a woman looks somewhat hesitantly at the lock gate bridge. As we step off the bridge on her side we exchange pleasantries and she asks can she get back if the gates open. “Bien sur” I reply ‘promenade sur la sentier de la port”. I tell you the locals think I’m as French as they are. Well that was until we arrived in the market square and attempted to buy fresh olives, stuffed chillies and fresh dates.

‘We always buy fresh dates when passing through Dubai Airport’ Ask me about this story next time you see me! Make sure you have an hour spare though. Otherwise it might be as well not to mention it!

Meanwhile back at the olive stall. The transaction, all but finished, the stallholder is asking me a question. I thought he said are you from ‘Londres’ ‘Mais no, a Plymouth” I reply “No no no” he replies with obvious frustration and repeats the question. It made no difference I still did not understand. Jackie suggests he is asking if we are Dutch and from the Nederland’s. “Don’t be daft”. I reply “Qui, qui, Nederlands” he replies with a look of total accomplishment on his face. He must have thought at last I’ve gotten through to these ‘Cloggies’ This, his moment of joy was dashed when I proudly proclaimed “Juis suis Anglais, j’habitex Angleterre”. A gallic shrug was now thrown into the conversation this I took to mean ‘forget it’ and we all wished each other “Bonne journee”. First time my French has ever been taken as that bad I was speaking with a Dutch accent!
We wandered around the various open air market stalls buying salad items, fruit and  some artisan ficelle. There was however no fromage stall so we took off into the high street and found a Co-op selling Super U products. Perhaps they are one and the same here. We bought another Donkey post card to post to Callum. A joke twixt him and Grumpy then made our way back for lunch. On the way we passed madame, whom we had chatted to ‘at the bridge’ earlier, she was on the other side of the road. That didn’t stop me from shouting across “Bonjour Madame”. God bless her.
She smiled back and said “Bonne journee”.

Back at the truck we prepped lunch which was a simply amazing salad with a glass of chilled white each. When you consider everything we bought today came to E54 enough for several meals and snacks over the next few days and yesterday’s lunch was E63 it is obvious where money will go if eating out each day. Also remember that a set, or limited choice lunch menu is ‘always’ cheaper than dinner. I’m not complaining you understand!

The day is now hot. We laze under the trees behind the camper reading and watching mother duck swim past. Alarm! There are only nine ducklings today. One of our ducklings is missing!  

1800hrs and we take ourselves off for a walk. The circus has a show starting now so we wander over to see the staff, dressed in their costumes. Even a very young 4 year old was dressed in a Ringmasters red uniform. The music was blaring out through loudspeakers and the animals seemed to sense it was ‘showtime’. The whole thing reminded me of Clint Eastwood’s film ‘Bronco Billy McCoy’. Billy Smarts it ain’t.

The Dutch couple beside us, he 77 she 74 were as amusing as ever. He spoke very good English she none. We spent many a half hour throughout the day chatting laughing and giggling. He insisted we make note of his all natural medicines and pills made from mussels. These he assured us had cured his rheumatism on his knee joints. A few months ago he could barely walk, now he was pretty mobile. Probably moving better than Mike at this stage.

We were delighted to receive from Les photos of him and Mel in their Canadian canoe in brilliant sunlight on the Tamar. Not. That only reminds us all too sharply that we have much catching up to do before we move to Sweden in August for our seven days canoe and wild camp! In anticipation of this

 

I have walked around the marina a couple of times today. I did weaken in the early evening and succumb to temptation and have an ice cream with Jackie. Crème Brule flavour. It was delicious.
  

I love these old soft top cars. Very rare in France now. Ideal for running around town in the gorgeous weather they have.

  


Day 36 Mortagne-sur-Gironde  To:  Meschers  Open:16368  Close:  16381
                            
Date:  Tuesday 4th July 2017       Weather:  Brighter, sunny periods   Mile:  13

We drove off our camping spot at Montagne-sur-mer at 1115hrs and headed for the other side of the estuary towards the boatyard and the Camping Car ‘Aire Service’. Here we could open the grey waste water tank valves to discharge, remove the WC cassette and dump down the drain and most importantly, for the sum of E1 we could take on two minutes of fresh water to fill our FW tank. We have this off to a pretty fine art now. Today there is no rush. There is no queue at this late hour. Earlier or at the busier Aire Services you need to be quick on your toes. It’s akin to a ‘hot refuel’. Well Ok I do switch off the engine but in all other respects it’s pretty-slick. Having already retrieved the 15 metre cassette of lay flat hose from the boot, the procedure goes something like this.

Ignition off. Handbrake on. Jackie leaps out with cassette hose and fully unreels ensuring no kinks. Unlocks the water fill point in the van inserts one end of the hose then connects the other end to the tap. Slips a Euro into the coin slot and holds onto the hose in the filling point till full. On completion she reverses the procedure and returns to seat in van.

Mike meanwhile has exited the vehicle, as usual catching his shorts over the handbrake handle and hanging there helpless for a while. Legs and arms flailing. On release, he moves to the WC cassette locker and removes the cassette, moves to the drain and unscrewing the discharge cap from the cassette empties the contents down the drain. Watch out for splash back! Then rinsing the cassette several times using the rinse tap, not the l’eau potable tap, wipe it dry with disposable tissue, place a litre of clean water inside, add 60ml of chemical, return the cassette to the WC locker wipe down hands and area with bacticidal wipes and return to the cab. Power up and drive off. Simples. Should Jackie be driving and I navigating we retain the same role. It’s just that she never seems to get hung up on the handbrake. Probably ‘cos her shorts are better fitting than mine.

We take the D145 coast road towards our next stop Meschers-sur-Gironde. We hope to be able to find a spot on the ‘port’ again next to a small marina. Angie and Tom had her birthday lunch here a few weeks ago and they thought it delightful so we decided to give it a try.


I was a little concerned as it was lunchtimeish and most of the spaces on the smaller ‘Aires’ fill by mid morning. We arrived at 1230hrs hours and to our amazement there were a few spaces. I reversed into one. We were backed onto a grassed area with a small stream further back. The circus was in town and parked opposite us. As we looked out the window a couple of camels looked back in. Off to one side we could see Llamas and various other animals grazing. It is E10 a night to stay here including a good electric hook up. Unfortunately the machine was ‘casse’, broken. A notice stated ‘No bank cards’ and the coin slot for E’s was jammed solid with paper. Well that’s it then a free stay ce soir.

Off to find Angie and Tom’s Restaurant ‘Le Moussaillon’ With the tide on the way in the lock gates to the marina are still closed so we walk across the lock gates, a shortcut and walk past the ten or so eating establishments. There is at this point only one road and it leads to a small car park at the end of the road which parallels the outlet from the marina to the Gironde, next to a tiny beach. There on the next to end but one is the Resto we are seeking.

It’s pretty empty but we are early. We sit and attempt to decipher the menu. Fifty percent we can understand the other fifty? No chance. My ‘petite question’ to what various things were elicited a reply which made no sense to me so we just went for it. The Panache and Kir arrived ‘tout suite’. Followed not long after by a carafe of house white which Angie insisted we try as she thought it the best ever. Well that’s subjective! We had opted for a three course set meal at E24 each. I had ten large scrimps with a cream sauce and Jackie, well we’re not sure what. I thought it was a warm goat salad but think I managed to misinterpret the menu. Checking later we discovered it was 'gizzards' the throat and neck. Jackie thought it was delicious. I suspect if she new what it was she wouldn't have even ordered it. My main was steak and frites. The steak I had bien cur and the chips were skin on curlies. Bootifull. Jackie had a delicious salmon with marrow and veggies followed by lemon meringue and I a Choco sponge with crème anglais. The grand total E63 £40 quid. More than enough for lunch. It was pleasant sat here looking onto the river and out to sea. Across from our table we could see the fishermen in those quaint sheds on stilts with the square nets on pulleys. How much luck they were having remains to be seen.

The marina. Can you spot Mummy duck and the ducklings?


Standing on the lock gates looking seaward.

The return to the van was slightly longer as now the tide was fully in and the lock gates open. This allow free access from and to the marina behind the gates. Thus no short cut for us but it gave us the opportunity to walk past more circus animals grazing on common land. Didn’t see any lions, tigers or elephants!

Mum plus ten. Tomorrow? It'll be only nine I'm afraid.

The remainder of the day till 1900hrs we spent sat in the sun or under the shade by the van reading and chilling, watching mummy duck swim up and down our stream with the ducklings. Then with the cool of the evening we went for a short walk onto the point and gazed across the Gironde. Here we are near to the mouth of the river, and it is a damn wide river. When the tide is out you have hundreds of metres of mud flats. Not easy dragging a Klepper over that and not leaving tracks for the Germans to spot if you’re on a commando raid into Bordeaux! It was at this point that we spotted a lone Kayaker pulling his canoe on a trolley. I approached and started chatting. He confirmed it was him we saw come ashore yesterday at Montagne. He was a student from Bordeaux and was conducting a small survey of some description of the estuary for a summer thesis. I think that’s what he said. About 250 kilometres of kayaking in six or so days. He was putting ashore here to camp for the night.

We sat outside for supper. Cheese and biscuits with some fresh fruit. Still stuffed after lunch!


Monday, 3 July 2017

Day 35     Mortagne-sur-Gironde              Open:16368 Close:  000
                            
Date:  Monday 3rd July 2017       Weather:  Brighter, sunny periods    Mile:  000 / 000

The blaring of the bread man's van horn woke us a little after 0800hrs. It  had been raining during the night and Jackie thought she had heard the bins being emptied about 2300hrs. Impossible?

The skies cleared after breakfast and Jackie and I took a walk around the marina and out to the boatyard. The marshes in this area are an important stop off point on the flight South for many birds wintering in Africa. Last night we thought we were watching a re-run of Hitchcock's 'The Birds' literally thousands flew over in 6 or 7 flocks.


High tide and the lock gates are open.

Some time in the C12 this sleepy, you might even unkindly say dead port was the third largest on this coast. After Bordeaux and Blaye.

Now with the tide fully in they have opened the inner basin lock gate and such boats as wish to enter and leave may do so. There are many big yachts in the marina, hence the lock gates, so as to keep them afloat.


Headed into the basin under power.

For a while we watched some guy whom we think had been at the rum barrel. He was steering a very large speedboat and was narrowly missing quite a few craft. His luck eventually gave out and he pranged a couple on their stern but continued manoeuvring.  One of the yachts he clipped had the owner and wife sat on board enjoying, well up to that point, lunch. Much shouting and gesticulating ensued. This was then followed by the brandishing of boathooks. Meanwhile the speedboat was still shunting around the berths like a dodgem car at Rowland and Anderton's Fairground. Seemingly oblivious to the rants and raves of several boat owners who had appeared from below on various craft.

The Battlewagon at Mortagne


Neither of these two were for sale.













Day 34     Moving on.                                       Open:16235 Close:  16368
                            
Date:  Sunday 2nd July 2017       Weather:  Brighter    Mile:  000 / 133 

On the Road Again  If I could work it out at this point you would be listening to Willie Nelson singing 'On the Road Again'. Alas.

I'm pretty desperate for a haircut and despite my invitation to Joy-Anne, my personal hairdresser, to fly out for the weekend and cut my hair, she has still not appeared. Angie offers and I accept.

1045hrs. With a degree of sadness we take our leave of Angie and Tom. They have been saviours during this, what could have been, quite a difficult interlude.

Mortagne-sur-Gironde.

1415hrs We arrive at the port of Montagne-sur-Gironne. The journey here has been most enjoyable. Mainly good straight dual carriageways. On leaving the Limousin we entered the grape growing area of Cognac. Here the vista changed completely to wide open aspects, fields stretching away into the distance. Here and there sunflowers started to appear as we drew further West. They, like the sweetcorn grew taller, many with their yellow heads turned toward the sun. They still had some way to grow but soon they too would be harvested for their oil. Jackie had done a great job of driving today and I, in all honesty had done a fair job of navigating. Fair because I missed a turning directing us from the last village down to Mortagne and Le Port.

Mortagne, the inner harbour.

No sooner had we arrived than we were connected to the mains electricity, switched over the fridge and put Angie's emergency soup rations on to heat. God bless her she had issued 'bag rats' consisting of home made soup and a raspberry tart. We walked to the ticket machine inserted our credit card, selected two nights stay and paid E18-60 to include 'leccy'. There is a channel that leads slightly inland from the Gironde which in turn ends in a basin or marina. There are numerous yachts and motor cruisers moored. At the far end, nearest the river, there is overflow parking for camping cars. This aire  has about 60 places all gravel pull-ins for the vehicle then surrounded by grass. Many with electricity.

It's seems to be a popular part of the coast to visit. As we sit eating our lunch, the world and his wife stop to gawk at the camper. Probably 'cos it's UK registered. It's brighter now and the tide is starting to drop. It would seem like a nice place to explore but today we decide to chill. Hopefully the sun will be out tomorrow and we can wander around the marina and boat yard.





Saturday, 1 July 2017

The OO/HO Scale model railway not large enough for you? 
Try this steam engine..........'Audrey'

Tom's handmade, full-size, loco name plates.


A 3" working steam engine. That's quarter size to you and I.

Front view. Awaiting nameplate.

Driver's view looking forward.

With Tom 'the engineer' for scale.

With the passing of Angie's mother Audrey a few years ago Tom eventually managed the time to purchase from England a 3" Scale Steam Engine. That's quarter scale. Doesn't seem correct if you've ever stood next to a full size one but I am assured it is. Tom spent most of last winters months stripping the whole thing down, re-washering, de-clinking, re-machining, welding, bolting, oiling, painting and polishing. The result is before you. It has been pressure tested to normal working pressure and is now awaiting its first coal fuel firing. Tom has a French pal who lives not far away who also is a great steam lover with a keen interest in these types of things. On fire up day Tom has invited him over to help keep an eye on joints and seams. I am certain after the hundreds of hours of loving attention to detail Tom has lavished on this construction, all will be OK.

It is his intention to exhibit 'Audrey' at the Internationally recognised Steam Fair at Dordrecht in Holland in late 25-26-27 May 2018. Steam Fair 




Day 33     Lunch with Angie's sister
                            
Date:  Saturday 1st July 2017       Weather:  Overcast   Mile:  000 /

Still overcast but today we are off South to Hendrick the Dutchman's Restaurant in    
Busserolles 24360. This is just down the road from Angie's sisters house. She and her husband Steve have bought an older style farm house and have been working on it for three years or so. Today we have the pleasure of the company of Jackie's two grandchildren, Owen and Erin. Aged 9 and 7. They are both fluent in Spanish, having been born in Madrid and English, their second language, was excellent.  A slight trace of Brummie twang could be heard if you listened hard. Their mother Kerry teaches English to bank employees and believe it or not hails from Cannock. That's somewhere near ??? Birmingham?? Tup North. The benefit of a mixed language marriage. They were on holiday with Jackie and Steve for a few weeks.

Wot no pasty?

The short downhill journey to the local village square with its bar and restaurant was an easy drive. Hell walking back I would imagine after a few shandies!

The entrance into the bar area on arrival was somewhat, how can I put it, dismal but the welcome was very warm. Once again move into the restaurant part and it was a different story altogether. Very clean, light and airy with great service and a fairly comprehensive menu choice for a lunchtime.

Lunch for Mike started with a buffet including crabs legs/pincers, langoustines, cold meats, pasta, salads etc. The main course was Moules et Frites followed by a three cheese selection course then an extremely light cheesecake.

Still on the old Mediterranean diet!

By the time we departed it was 1515hrs and we were stuffed. Refusing more drinks at Jack and Steve's we took our leave and within ninety minutes we were back at Le Buis sat on the couch sipping our T.

Day 32     Audrey and The Engine Shed at Le Buis
                            
Date:  Friday 30 June 2017       Weather:  Rain / Overcast   Mile:  000 /

Pretty relaxed day. Shopping in the am at Stephan's and Super U in anticipation of the Stopportons departing Sunday. We called into the local Doctors and handed in a letter from Dr Sodji to him. I was technically the local Doctors patient. Here we took copies of the letter outlining my recent operation for my Dr in England, collected some cash from the bank then back to the Pharmacie for more meds. Another E35.

The afternoon was far more interesting Tom and I spent it in...........
The Engine Shed

Arkwright's Store


Waiting at the crossing.


What's showing at the cinema?

The Brewery lorry, loading up.

How do I get to the park from here?

Jaguar Owners Club. Sunday meet at the pub.


Tunnel vision.


The layout.