Day 4 Tuesday 5th
June 2018
Kalymos to Port Vathy
Poppy’s birthday.
0800hrs. The Stopportons
surfaced. We had a lazy start to the day. Suzie was just returning from
Walkabout. Tim was uploading the log and David was yet to appear. The night had
been hot. Again a single sheet was sufficient. Jackie for some reason had been
unable to get off to sleep for quite a while last night. Early this morning, I
was woken by the boat rocking. It must have been the wash from the early
morning ferry leaving port. Now, I was also aware of a banging on the hull. Was
it some flotsam or baulk of timber. Investigating later in the morning I
discovered it was our rear fender that was catching on the aft swim platform.
Whilst Suzie and Jackie went ashore
to get bottled water, David and Tim plotted today’s course. This would take us
on a short trip South on the island of Kalymnos, rounding the point where we would
then alter course, headed North towards the ‘fjord’ of Port Vathy town.
1030hrs We departed
Kalymnos harbour, under power. The relatively short journey today had to be
undertaken using the motor. There was simply no wind. The sea and sky was once
again beautiful, not a cloud to be seen. Away in the distance we could see the
coast of Turkey and through the binos we could make out Bodrum.
Despite the Garmin there is
always a need for a good pair of Binos. The fjord we were headed for was not
immediately obvious. We changed course to port and drew closer to the shore. A
mast appeared above some rocks and before long we spotted the entrance into the
fjord’s mouth. Mike was sent for’ard to drop the fenders and prepare the
anchor. This entailed opening the anchor locker and withdrawing the electronic
control. As suggested by David, I tested the anchor by dropping it a foot,
ready for the command ‘Drop anchor’. We motored further into the bay which
began to narrow, hemmed in by cliffs either side. Ahead we could see more masts
and a taverna, this was looking better than the Greek Pilot had suggested.
It reminded Mike of the cove we
had visited in Scotland, next to the ruined castle on the clifftop. I thought
about Dad, his birthday today and started humming the tune to ‘The Vikings’ at
the top of my voice. He would have loved to have sailed in here.
Lat 27* 03’ Lon 36* 8’ Port Vathy.
1135hrs. Ashore the ‘port
harbour master’ a rather grand term for the gentleman who also runs the sponge
stall shouted “Hello Captain”. This is the signal to ‘hand over’ control of the
boat to him. Not physically but one needs to pay strict attention to his
directions. It took us two attempts to reverse in. The first time we believed
all was well. We were tied up alongside but realised we were dragging our
anchor. In fact it was the harbour master that had pointed this out to us. We
had to untie the warps and motor forward, Tim in complete control of the
throttle inching us out, almost touching the cliff face opposite. It was at
this point that Mike once again received the command ‘Drop anchor’. Away it
clanked running out metre after metre of anchor chain. It is as much the length
of chain, the weight of it as the anchor that does the work! This time
reversing in we were told all was OK. We warped up and immediately walked
ashore into Aimanaki Toy Baoy bar. Beers, a Greek coffee for Suzie and a G+T
which blew your head off for Jackie followed. It was so pleasant here sat in
the sun, drinking cold beer. Madam returned with first a plate of fresh baked
biscuits, delicious then some warm strawberry coolie she had been preparing for
tonight’s dessert. She was baiting the trap! Mike suggested that he would like
to dine here tonight on the quayside, sat at a table right beside the boat.
Madam said it would be OK for us and so we booked a table for 1930hrs.
Sat looking out over
the few moorings we felt we had landed in as perfect a spot as you would want.
The peace and quiet was soon to
be broken. Motoring in were a few gulets, traditional old style, Turkish
passenger vessels. These looked most magnificent but unfortunately held dozens
of passengers, who invaded this, our little piece of paradise.
We were selfish. No? Yes!
After a few beers we literally
stepped across the road and changed into our swimmies and took ourselves off
for a dip. The water was slightly fresh on entering but immediately after was
OK. I swam about for 15 minutes then along with Jackie got out. Suzie swam on
and was soon joined by Tim. David had selflessly decided to occupy and thus
hold our table on the jetty for tonight and was consuming beers. 
David on duty,
guarding our table for tonight’s scran.
Coffee on the
Taverna terrace. The Chrysanthi in rear. Gulet to the right with the sea
beyond.
After our dip Mike and Jackie
went walkabout trying to access the old Christian Church ruins on the hill
opposite but the route was barred. We took photos looking down upon the boat.
The old harbour.
The boatyard can be seen in rear, with boats pulled up.
The tiny port of
Vathy on the Island of Kalymnos. Greece.
The Chrysanthi,
away in the distance tied up at the
quayside from the old boatyard.
Returning to the boat Mike
stopped at the harbourmaster’s sponge and jewellery stall where we engaged in
conversation about general things. Jackie bought a glass bead blue bracelet and
Mike took a fancy to the natural tree stand that displayed these items along
with rings made from sea shells and various quite tasteful necklaces. “How much
do you want for the blue tree?” “It’s orange.” “No, blue.” “Yes, orange tree
wood.” He eventually saw the joke and slapped me on the back like an old pal.
Whilst David caught up on a few
zeds Tim Suzie and Jackie walked back into the taverna and had a beer. Or two.
“Yamas.”
Mike updated his diary and then
joined them for a beer. Soon David appeared and we sat there drinking white
wine by the carafe. Now feeling peckish Suzie asked for some nibbles, soon two
dishes of peanuts were delivered to our table and Madam said she would lay the
table on the quayside below us. We had now decided there would be insufficient
room to eat down there, it was always going to be a squeeze as ‘the road’ below
was only a single track and the harbour walkway barely large enough to fit two
let alone five.
She insisted, we insisted but
soon we had beaten her into submission. In truth it was easier for her. She
returned with bowls of fresh sardines, squid, octopus and asked us what we
might like in the way of fish. Starters were chosen, Sea urchin salad,
Tazaziki, Sausage in spiced tom sauce and huge chunks of fresh bread. The main
course was goat meatballs and chips, moussaka whilst Mike chose octopus with
chips. Most things seemed to come with chips but it was still delicious.
Dessert was as usually complimentary.
Greek yogurt with the fresh strawberry couli madam had made this afternoon.
On completion we walked the six
meters back on board, had a small glass of port.
2130hrs we were in bed.
