Fools Afloat. Day 15.

Day 15. Saturday 16 June 2018

0700hrs awake. It is stifling hot in the cabin. Mike pulls on shorts and goes aloft. Sits in the cockpit and enjoys the stillness of the morning. This huge new marina is far from full and shows no sign of life. OK it might still be a bit early. He is soon joined by Jackie and then Tim who has had the kettle boiling and in no time appears with the tea.

0830hrs We walk along the seafront to the local cemetery which is huge, in anticipation of laying flowers on the graves of six SAS soldiers who lost their lives in the Greek Campaign and are buried in the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery.

David stops to buy flowers from outside the Cemetery entrance. It is a huge cemetery and no indication of the CWGC. We split up. This might be interesting! Mike spots a couple of grave diggers and asks them. They speak no English and call over someone else whose English is a bit shaky. I think they are telling us to exit this Greek cemetery go up through the street market outside and it can be found on the far side of the road.

We wander through three or four more cemeteries before Mike spots some white  columns amongst the trees on the far side of the road. Tim doubles across to check, gives Jackie and I the thumbs up. David, who has gone in search in the other direction is nowhere to be seen. Mike takes off after him and soon all four are back in the CWGC looking for ‘the lads’. They are duly found. Flowers are laid and due respect shown We sign the visitors book and make our return to Chrysanthi.

Rhodes New Marina, Chrysanthi's pontoon.

Return to the boat and whilst David gets the laundry ready for collection we three sit at a small café/bar opposite our pontoon in the marina and have a coffee and cake.  It is time to think about moving. We borrow the boat key from Tim, walk down and collect our holdalls. We give panda one last stroke and ask that she looks after the boys in our absence and walk across to the marina reception to book a cab.

A taxi is just dropping a customer, so we jump in with him after we have agreed the cost. E25. He is a chatty sort of guy and I suspect uses the opportunity to practice his English. It is exactly thirty minutes to the airport. There are huge queues at every check-in desk with the exception of Eurowings. Our German carrier. We walk straight up drop the cases which are bagged and tagged and make our way upstairs to security check-in. Quickly through, didn’t seem that thorough to me and then try to find seats and a gate monitor. Both very scarce.
We seemed to be late boarding. We were certainly late taking off, by almost an hour. We missed two take off slots. This was due partly to excess hand luggage being carried on and there being no room in the overhead lockers and thus having to be passed out and down to hold luggage and two of the overheads catches had failed. we had to await a guy with 'Technician' emblazoned in large letters across the back of his shirt to put a few pieces of masking tape over the faulty catches before we could take off. Crazy.


Eventually at London Heathrow after more delays at Dusseldorf Jackie rings Uber the taxi company for a lift back to Trevor and Janis's, they were in Norway for a few days. This went very well. The driver was Hassan and drove like the proverbial. Cost us £39 for the 30 minute ride to Rickmansworth. I'm glad there was no hold ups on the M25.


This holiday was something we thought might be slightly outside our comfort zone. We thought the weather might have been an issue as regards waves and winds but Tim assured us we had booked the best possible period to sail with them. It was fantastic. Absolutely marvellous.


As the locals have been known to say "I have a penis."


Thank you David and Tim.

Fools Afloat. Day 14.

Day 14 Friday 15 June 2018.

0525hrs. Reveille. We can hear Tim and by some miracle David, up and about. Unusual. David will normally sleep on and allow me more ‘learning space’.

There is a brew on. Mike opens the hatch above the stairwell and peers out. Daybreak is approaching. Just about visible in the gloom, leaving harbour is ‘The D.J. Fisherman’. Always has his radio playing way above what everyone else in harbour considers necessary.  All four of us sit on deck and finish our tea. We can skip breakfast. Someone says “I see no reason why we shouldn’t leave”. With that David takes the helm and starts the engine, Tim has gone forward, retrieved the anchor remote and looking back at David awaits the command to ‘weigh anchor’. David gives the thumbs up, the anchor chain can be heard rattling down into the chain locker, Tim turns, gives the thumbs up to the Helm ‘Anchor up’ and at 0550hrs we leave Patriamos Harbour.

There is no wind for about the first hour and a half. We motor on. The darkness lifts and the sun rises away to the East over Turkey. We are all in Tee shirts. It’s not cold but Mike has been feeling abit chilled this morning. Once again the Garmin has been playing up but thanks to David’s tinkering he soon has us back on! Mike has been helming for a reasonable time now and needs a Jimmy. Handing the bat to Tim he disappears below. My it’s nice and warm. He grabs his Rab jacket from beneath the bunk and is about to put it on when he thinks, ‘I’ll just stretch out for a few moments to get warm’. He’s zonko in seconds. The last thing he remembers is Jackie asking “Are you OK?” “Of course I am, just putting my jacket on, I’m feeling a little cold”. Two hours later there was much crashing and banging which awoke the poor man. I lay there for a while, all seemed ok, probably just changing tack. I thought I best go aloft and make sure all was well with the helm. Emerging I am subject to much ridicule from all. Jackie must have gone straight back up and told them I was feeling ‘cold’. Well you know what it's like on these long sea passages. Someone has to be the duty whipping boy. Today it was me. "Have I missed anything?" I ask in all innocence. All three then hit me with stories of sharks, killer whales and even mermaids swimming beside the boat, all of which I had missed. All fabrications of course. Mike turns away, as much to avoid the ribbing, to look for the Rhodes coast away in the distance and immediately sees  a large ‘fish’ perhaps six feet long leap out of the water twice, about hundred meters out from the boat. Black body top and white underbelly. "Did you see that?" "What?" I explained. Nobody else saw it and so I was immediately accused of sleep walking and dreaming, even hallucinating after entering bright sunlight after having spent hours below in a dark cabin. Bollocks!

Panda has the helm with David.

The tack we are on should take us to the Northern tip of Rhodes Island. Just on the Eastern side of the peninsular is the new harbour. On shore there is mile upon mile of hotels and high rise. Rhodes is the largest of the Greek islands and very popular. This is witnessed by the hundreds if not thousands of people crammed on the beaches in front of the hotels on sun loungers or beneath umbrellas. Why would you wish to have a ‘holiday’ like that?

A study in concentration.

1315hrs Arrive at Rhodes New Marina. Here we refuel as the refuel jetty is to one side in the harbour mouth. E33 odd of diesel. There is a strongish wind blowing into the harbour and it is easier to go astern from the fuel jetty rather than try to push off into the wind to clear it.


Tim meanwhile has made contact with the marina on Channel 71 and has been allocated a berth. There are lazy lines and David reverses into our spot. Whilst Tim and David go to the office to pay for two nights,  Mike cracks a few tinnies and Jackie has a wine.

Arriving Rhodes Marina.

Within a short while David declares he is hungry and so we wander ashore to a rather nice bar/resto called The Naval. It is quite plush compared with most of the tavernas we have been eating at. All marble floors and champagne buckets. Salads seem to be the choice for all bar Tim who opts for a crab and potato moose. Initially Tim sat apart at a table trying to both power up his computer and log on. Power was OK but there was a glitch with the internet. He will try latter and joins us for a pre-lunch drink.

1530hrs. Back at the boat various members disappear below decks for a kip. Jackie packs the holdalls in anticipation of the Stopportons flight home tomorrow. Mike who caught a 'few minutes' sleep earlier today writes up the diary. There is a strong wind blowing, warm but strong from the South. The weather is said to be changing these next few days.

1900hrs We catch the taxi into the old town. E8. It immediately starts to rain. In fact it is lashing down. No sooner have we entered the old walled city, another St John fortress, when we decide we can no longer move forward. The rain is horrendous. People are taking shelter all over in shop doorways café entrances. An enterprising young Moroccan looking guys soon appears and is offering umbrellas for E5. We clap and applaud him but soon a shopkeeper is on hand and admonishes him. The chat must have been something like "Push off, I pay rates for my shop you pay nothing."


Again we are unable to locate the resto that David assures us is one of the best in the old town. We wander up and down various streets and alleyways asking all and sundry. To no avail. On the verge of giving up David asks one more time. "Ah yes, I used to work there with the chef who now works here in this Resto, it closed last year." A an old informs us. Sounded like me to be a ploy to get us into his establishment.  We ate in this guys restaurant and a very nice meal it was too. The Amazon of a 'woman' who was our waiter seemed very 'manly' to me. I would have sworn 'she' was a fella. Towered over us boys! In fact the whole experience was that good that Tim and David booked a table for tomorrow night in anticipation of dining out with the two new crew members. Not even gone yet and almost forgotten.

Mike starboard helm, Jackie port helm and Panda checks the Garmin.

Fools Afloat. Day 13

Day 13 Thursday 14 June 2018

Simi Island on to Panormitis Bay.  36*33’.12N   27*50’.53E

0630hrs Jackie's rasping cough wakes me. She has been suffering all night poor thing. It will be a hot one again today. We get up about 0700hrs and to my amazement Tim was still in his bunk. Hooray I had beaten him for the first time this holiday. I brewed up and we three sat on deck. The heat already pretty oppressive. The only movement anywhere, the goats on the pebble beach. Oh and the man in the yacht some twenty meters away skinny dipping. That soon caught Jackie's eye.

0920hrs We weigh anchor and sail out. Flat calm sea for miles. Away in the distance we can make the outline of Rhodes.

1130hrs Arrive Panormitis 36*33’.12N 27*50’.53E. We are on the Southern tip of the island of Simi.

This circular almost totally enclosed bay is famous for its Taxiarhis Mihail monastery. Dedicated to the Archangel Michael. It houses a couple of small museums containing mainly what one expect to find associated with a monastery but it was extensively pillaged during WW2. To the West of the monastery is a memorial to the Abbot, two monks and two teachers who were executed by the Germans for operating a spy radio for British Commandoes.

Jackie makes a sarnie for lunch whilst Tim and I untie the inflatable from the upper deck, heave it over the side and run it down to the rear swim platform in anticipation of going ashore this evening. Next comes the task of un-mounting the 5hp outboard, being careful not too drop it in the 'ogin' Mike hands it down to Tim who is now on, or should that be in, the inflatable. Tim soon has things clamped and we return to ‘the mother ship’ for lunch.

The afternoon is spent lazing about and some general swimming around the boat. Mike once again borrows David’s swim fins and snorkel and manages to swim ashore. Emerging from the water like James Bond in ‘From Russia with Love’.  

Mike decides to swim ashore to check the taverna.

Later Tim and David will take the inflatable around Chrysanthi11 ostensibly to film her but are soon headed for shore. That's strange. It wasn't planned. When Jackie challenges them they say they are going to book a table for tonight. They have disappeared. Even stranger.

J K Jerome's "Three men in a boat " comes to mind.

Scanning ashore with the binos we can see Tim and David sat at a table in the rear of the Taverna, beneath the shade of a Tamarisk tree, knocking back beers. Almost hiding!

We are ashore tonight at the local taverna. There seems to be only two tavernas, the monastery and about six houses. Nothing else.

Eventually they return. Various excuses were offered then they both disappeared for a kip!
The evening soon arrived. Not that you would know it from the heat. It was time to go ashore for scran. The lasdt of the grockle boats had departed some time ago and apart from maybe a dozen yachts moored in the harbour the place was empty. Tim has decided it is not too safe to have four up on this little tender. The first run will be David ashore. David, with some trepidation gets into the tender. At the helm is Tim. He is pulling on the shock cord trying to get the little 5hp motor to fire. It does and they are away like a toy balloon released by a six year old. All over the place. Eventually he returns for the Stopportons. At least if we get dumped in we know the water's not cold.

2105hrs Return from dinner via tender. Tim after a few glasses of wine decides it is now OK for all four of us to get in the tender, a mode of transport he seems to have remarkably little control over! I didn't think he drank that much with the meal!


Safely on board we have a small glass of port then turn in. It’s an early start tomorrow!

 

 

Fools Afloat. Day 12.

Day 12  Wednesday 13 June 2018

0635hrs. Here we go again we are awoken by the boat rocking violently and banging against the boats moored either side. We race on deck. Tim has the starboard fenders and with our neighbour in his much smaller speed boat who has the boathook out, is keeping his deck from scrapping ours. I believe he is more concerned about his craft than ours. In fact during this latest ‘surge’ one of his fenders burst. The slightly larger boat on our port, crewed by 6 German guys is my responsibility but they and we have positioned our fenders in such a way that they are working as should be. These damn Greek Ferries causing surges.

Drama over Tim returns to updating the log and I put the kettle on. Soon Jackie calls us on deck. There is another drama unfolding. Two boats are in the centre of the channel and one seems to have fouled the others anchor chain. It is not yet 0730hrs but quite a few boats seem to be leaving. Most crews who are awake stand in their respective bows and watch. There is limited room for anchor and chain in Simi and it is essential you drop anchor in direct line with your craft when going stern to.

We see no need to dally further. We have no real distance to cover today but as David is now on deck we decide to disconnect shore power and take in the anchor. Mike cast off the port quarter warps, David at the helm, casts the starboard and with a little forward engine Tim soon has the anchor  inboard. Mike has rolled the bimini and with Jackie’s help secured it. She then goes forward to help release and store the fenders in conjunction with Tim. Mike meanwhile is coiling and storing the warps.  Mercifully no one had fouled our chain.

Tim watches anxiously as boats depart. No fouled anchor chains today!

0735hrs. We clear the harbour entrance. We raise the gib. There is not too much wind and for a mere thirty minutes manage to sail. 4 knots, then we lose the wind. We are forced onto the motor which we use for the remainder of our short voyage down the East coast of Simi.

1015hrs. Marathounda Bay. 27*52’ Lat 36*35’Lon. This is the southern most taxi boat stop on the island of Simi. Simi town does not really have a beach worth talking about. Yes there is a small stretch but it seems to be private. Thus you have to pay E5 for a sunbed! When we arrived at Marathounda the pebbled beach was deserted, apart from a half dozen goats wandering through the parasols and sunbeds. On the beach is a Taverna owned by a local Greek family. The food they serve is supposedly grown or reared in the fields either side of the beach. I could see the field boundaries and some attempt at irrigation but no crops growing.


We anchored offshore but as the boat was swinging on its anchor Tim decided to swim a line to the South shore and tether the boat. All went well. He was soon back on board and encouraging us in for a dip. In went the Stopportons. It was lovely and warm, not that many fish though. After twenty minutes we were back on board sat on the swim platform drinking beer, wine or Tea. Tea?

Tim decided we needed a marker buoy on the forty or so metres of rope that tied us to the shore and so once more swam out and attached same. Just as he was doing so six swimmers were spotted by David coming around the headland making for us. We shouted to the accompanying boat man, it was a lady, warning her about our line. Which she acknowledged. We asked “Where are you from?” meaning “How far have you swum?” “I’m from England and these swimmers are from all over the world.” It seems they were on some sort of ‘swimming’ holiday. Crazy!

1245hrs. We have passed the last few hours reading kindles and such. Tim suggested he make a cheese and ham sarnie for lunch. Jackie was in the bow sunning herself, David was trying to catch up on some kip in his forward cabin and Mike had just emerged on deck to get some dishes when he noticed we were seemingly perilously close to the shore. Calling for Tim to come on deck, he accessed the situation immediately and ran forward to the anchor locker bowled Jackie to one side grabbed the anchor remote and took in some chain. At the same time telling me to start the engine and cast off our stern line. As soon as I had cast off I was instructed to fire up the engine and motor forward and turn inward to port. We circled for a while, twice, took depth soundings and eventually dropped anchor once again. This time in the centre of the bay. The wind now quite strong was blowing off the land from the West and turning the boat. Panic over. What panic? It was a text book demonstration of immediate reaction to orders.

Tim who had gone below decks re-emerged with ham and cheese sarnies for all but David. It seems we might have to reposition the boat again this evening in case the wind blows in from the sea. If it does it’ll probably run us onto the beach. The wind blew fairly hard for the remainder of the day. The boat swinging on its anchor.

Ferry departed about 1700hrs with some consideration for us and the other boat at anchor. Unlike when powered in late morning creating a massive wash so much so that I was warned when in the galley making a brew. And Jackie was sunbathing on the rear swim deck.

Chicken goulash curry. This was prepared by Mike with considerable input from David without which I doubt we would have enjoyed it as much as we did. This was washed down with some  sweet white wine. After dinner, we sat as it grew darker and listened to Elkie Brooks on Tims music machine, sipping slowly on our drinks. There was just the right amount of evening breeze to cool us.

2130hrs. Bed.

Fools Afloat. Day 11.

Day 11     Tuesday 12 June 2018

0720hrs. Jackie tells me Tim is up. I get dressed and go aloft. Bang my head on the Perspex hatch cover, Tim is nowhere in sight returning to the galley I put the kettle on and there is Tim zonko on his bunk.



Tim on the far side of the harbour photographing us?

Breakfast is boiled egg and bread.

David emerges from his cabin as we are washing up.


As we are in Simi for a second day we are determined to stretch our legs.

Tim eventually finds his boots after lifting every hatch in the saloons deck. He sets off upward on the North side of the island the Stopportons walk to the South side of the harbour and start ascending the 575 steps to the old fortress and church atop the hill.

From the far side of the harbour we can make out Tim walking up first one long flight of steps stopping looking around then descending back to the harbour side to attempt another set in the hope they will lead to the top. We watch Tim take a few various stairways but turn back. He has yet to find his way up to the top of his side of the hill. We / he now disappears from view.

Even on our side there is a myriad of backstreets and alleyways. Houses are built into and on the side of the hill and are crammed in everywhere. It seems to be Italian style architecture some in a severe state of ruin this was caused by the retreating Germans blowing their ammo dump on this side of town in ’43. Numerous bunkers and small MG emplacements still can be found around the outer edges of the harbour guarding the approaches. Must have been a soft draft here for the Germans. Certainly better than the Russian front! We stop and chat to an English couple who are staying in a studio apartment on the top near the fortress. They recommend Jannis’s coffee shop for a break half way up. We are built of sterner stuff and so tabb on.

 

An old bomb shell forms the bell at the top.

The church of Panaghia tou Kastrou, on the top of the hill.  This church is set amoungst the old walls of the fortress, mainly crumbled, the fortress was another Knights of St John fortification.   Apart from a further two small rooms of worship on either side of this small hill there is not much else. We snap a few photos then start back down.

We stop at the Olive Grove Café run by two English ladies. They have been on the island for twenty years. Still as English as…? This was a lovely shaded courtyard. In general conversation it transpires that one of the owners worked at Strawberry Fields, the very caravan site where Tracey has her caravan. This was in the days before Chris bought the site. Another customer nearby hears us talking to Madam and asks do we know Cornwall ?Are we from the Westcountry? It is a small world and again on this holiday we are speaking to visitors that have come from Cornwall. Her name is Jane  Walker and she  paints.  She is here on vacation staying opposite in a small villa, painting with her good friend Kate. She tells us she can be found, in the summer months, painting, sat on the back of her orange hulled sailing boat in the Fowey River. "You must look me up when next you sail past."

Back at the harbour we wander through the various alleyways checking out a few shops and gradually start to return to the boat. Turning a corner,  there is Tim going shopping. Mike joins him. We buy chicken for a ruby tomorrow night when we will be anchored off, wine, veggies, ham etc. Returning to the boat we crack a few shandies.

Whilst the others have a snooze Mike goes walkabout around the point and the old boatyard. An area of the harbour not much visited by tourists I suspect, no souvenir shops and very few bars. This is though the road to the beach. Its E5 for a sunbed and they are packed in like sardines. The water is azure blue but shelves very quickly on the edge of the beach. Mike walks on along the coast road and explores amongst various German WW2 machine gun posts. Intact in the main, complete with steel ladders dropping fifteen feet to the entrance door.


Returning to the boat, Jackie is on deck reading. The others soon reappear after their snooze. We await  the waterman. As his name suggests, he's the guy with a long hosepipe that will refill our fresh water tanks. He is due sometime between 1630 – 2000hrs. We all take showers, obviously as the water will soon be replenished. The boat is topped off about 1730hrs. It is quiet on the quayside. Most of the day tourists have returned to Rhodes on the grockle boats and Simi is returning to its usual sleepy self. In the handbag and leather jacket shop opposite, the same two girls who have been on duty and on their feet since 0900hrs for the last two days and seem not to have sold anything will close about 2200hrs. Long, long, hours.

Mike had suggested a nice resto he found on walkabout this afternoon with views out into the bay.

There is a voice hailing us from the quasyside. It is Jane and Kate. We welcome them aboard. Jane lives in Fowey and has a boat on the river, hull painted orange from which she paints. They are fascinated by the Garmin which Tim is plotting for tomorrow’s course. They chat. Jane has done her Coastal Skipper nav part in Plymouth and practical in Aruba. Tim questions how is this possible as there are no major tide changes in the Carribean? They are off somewhere on the point for dinner as are we soon.

Dinner. The view was fantastic but alas the cost was considerably higher then we had previously paid and for not as good a quality as we had had elsewhere. Tim had salmon. A beautiful looking cross section fillet and was asked veggies or potatoes? Tim chose potatoes. When they arrived it was freshly made crisps. Hot and quite delicious if you wanted crisps. We are growing lads we need spuds! I suggested returning them but the waiter insisted they were good and fresh not out of a packet. We told him that crisps was certainly not what we would expect with salmon regardless how fresh they were. I suggested to Tim we reorder some potatoes but no.  This certainly took the edge off the meal and we all felt for Tim. David seemed very sleepy throughout the meal. He had been feeling a bit woozy for a few days with his dizziness and I suspect the day sat in the heat beneath the bimini didn’t help. Not only were the starters as expensive as the cheaper main courses but we knew we would not be offered any complimentary drinks or dessert here. Tim asked for the bill and we left. E88. I felt bad as it was my suggestion from my afternoon walk. David went straight to bed and as soon as we knew he was safe below decks we went ashore to a small café and bought two ice creams, treble scoops and logged on. There was no Wi-Fi at the resto.  Another mark against it.

Lovely view out to sea from Simi but the resto did not live up to expectations.

Whilst we were sat enjoying our late night ices Jane and Kate walked past, unfortunately before we noticed them, otherwise they could have joined us for a late night drink.

 

Fools Afloat. Day 10.

Day 10 Monday 11 June 2018

We had planned for a 0600hrs start.

We were headed due West for the island of Simi some 35 miles away. Assuming we make 5 knots an hour we should be there by 1400hrs. Allowing for good winds from the West. It is our intention to use the Nimos passage. A channel some 3 m deep between the small island of North Nimos and North Simi.

Simi was once famous for boat building and sponge diving. Many of the fast galleys of the Knights of St John were built here.

0550hrs. Depart. Anchor laid across ours. Merde! Mike calls back to the cockpit for the boat hook which Tim brings forward. Hanging over the bow Mike starts 'fishing' for the fouled anchor chain. The damn Boat hook handle falls off then the handle starts to drift away. Tim moves aft and changes into swim shorts and dive mask. David is now on deck. Jackie lowers the swim platform and Tim dives in. Raising the fouled anchor chain once more Mike, with some difficulty is able to pass a rope around the offending chain, someone else's anchor and Tim in the water, treading throws it up to me. I tie this off thus holding the offending chain up. Tim, back on board reverses the boat. Our anchor is now clear of the fouled chain and Mike takes in the remainder of the anchor. We motor out of harbour dead on 0600hrs.

Not much wind. A couple of hours’ worth making 6 or so knots at best, eventually we switch on the engine, now making a steady 6.5 knots. Fairly calm little or no shipping anywhere. We are overtaken by a beautiful Turkish Sloop with two masts no sails set. She is soon gone. For a while we run parallel to the Turkish coast. It is barren. David has disappeared below, Tim has the helm. Mike is feeling so sleepy sat on the rear transom. The gentle rolling of the boat induced a high degree of sleepiness. Soon after David comes on deck Tim declares he is going below for a kip. Mike thinks bugger it. He lets David helm then asks permission to leave the bridge. He’s gone for about 90 minutes, some say more and gets a fair amount of kip. When he returns we are nearing the straights , we are soon through and there across the bay is Simi Town the capital of Simi Island.

The North Simi Passage in rear.

 

Racing in the local ferry.

 

Entering Simi harbour.

1300hrs we are alongside. Directed by three wharf men one says go right, one left and the other seems to have no interest other than amusedly wondering which of his two companions instructions we will follow. As you might know we were moored in slightly the wrong position Tim offered to move but the honcho said we were ok  E33 for two night inc electricity. Water was E5. See Jannis the waterman.

Our mooring in Simi. Stern to looking out across the harbour.

David had seen in one of the restaurant guides a recommendation for Mythos Resto. Thus come dinner time he insisted on dragging us across the harbour, up every back alley and side street in an attempt to locate Mythos Restaurant. "It comes highly recommended." was all David would reply to our questions as to when and where we would find it. Eventually we locate it. It closed down some time ago and was now a gym. Judging by the immaculate young coiffured males inside, none of whom looked like Arnold Schwarzenegger I assumed it was for queens only. Dinner that night at Taverno Haris. It rained hard and thus we stayed for rather longer than perhaps we might otherwise have done.

2145hrs Return to the boat for drinks in the saloon  but it was too hot and airless we sat on deck for a short period, the rain had stopped. We were in bed a little after 2200hrs. Despite all of us having had an afternoon kip as well.

Fools Afloat. Day 9.

Day 9 Sunday 10^th June 2018

We had agreed on a stopover here at Nisyros and as such we could enjoy a lie in. However 0700hrs came and we were immediately awake. Body clock I suspect! The day started, at least at this early hour slightly hazy above the mountains which formed the backdrop to our harbour. This was soon to pass.

0900hrs Taverna Ellinia was opened and the young waitress whom I am assured by both Tim and David was called Aphrodite started dusting off and laying the tables. Whilst the others sat on board and drank tea, Mike went walkabout.

Youngsters all on their phones!

Let's not waste time, let's get stuck in!

1000hrs. Tim suggested we walk over to Ellinas for breakfast. The very thing I had suggested to Jackie only seconds before. Normally breakfast on board is a boiled egg, slice of bread with a mug of T or coffee. This morning we had a veritable feast. Mike opting for a bacon, cheese and ham omelette with Tim and Jackie ordering the ‘lighter’ continental breakfast. This came with cheese, ham, jams and three slices of toast. Let us not forget the complimentary bowl of crisps, which none of us touched I am pleased to say.

We sat there for nearly an hour, David stayed on for another gin, or three. No sooner had we returned to the boat when the laundry was brought over. E24.

Today was to be an easy day. Mike and Jackie took a stroll along part of the island towards the old spa hydro complex. I say old but in reality this huge complex was yet to be completed. It seems this is another grand scheme that has run out of cash.

The beach beside the harbour.

Fools Afloat. Day 8.

Day 8 Saturday 9^th June 2018

0700hrs. Another clear blue sky. Flat calm, no wind. This was Suzie’s last morning aboard the Chrysanthi.  Her cab was booked for 0800hrs to take her to the Airport. All had begged her to stay another week but alas she had family commitments. We all hugged and wished her a safe homeward journey. She passed her bergan up onto deck and Mike took it onto the jetty where we were soon joined by Tim. He was to walk her the short 500 metres to the taxi rank. There was no point in him seeing her away at the airport. This would only incur more cost. With Suzie now departed we were down to four. That meant promotion for the Stopportons and with that extra responsibility!!

0835 hrs. The order was given, “Prepare ship for sea.” Well something like that. Perhaps not quite so dramatic. We set about tasks. The spring line was taken in, hatches closed and all loose items stowed. With David at the helm, the motor was fired, Tim let slip the aft warps and on command Mike let go the forward warp. Meanwhile Jackie was finishing the last furl of the Bimini. Within minutes we had passed through the harbour mouth and Kardemena was falling astern.

There was no wind. It was mirror calm. We motored onward towards ?????. Several times we cut the engines hoping for some wind to fill the gib. Nothing. On we motored. Toady we had a mere ten miles to cover we had done almost five before we managed to find some wind. The sails barely filled but with the correct trim set by Tim and good helmsmanship by Jackie we managed a steady 5 knots.

The entrance around the mole was narrow but of a good depth. Tim stood in the bow, forward lookout and directed David at the helm to a berth. The harbour was fairly deserted there were ample moorings. Having chosen, with good teamwork we were soon tied up and congratulating ourselves on our performance.

1100hrs. Palon Harbour. Nisiros. 36*37’.24 N 27*10’.44E.  Alongside. Soon a Turkish gin palace arrived, stern to like us. It had a male crew of two and the owner and his wife. They docked with the minimum of fuss apart from when David pointed out the potential trip hazard with their gangplank passing under  our starboard aft warp. Someone on board was not happy with this and they moved a few meters away. Again with total proficiency.

This was in total contrast to  a French yacht that was attempting to come alongside on our port side. All, bar the ‘Captain’ on board, could see he had his motor going too fast and had not aligned his reverse in line with his anchor and chain. Many shouted ‘slow down’ but the guy seemed to be flustered. He hit the boat moored on his port side bounced off and was headed for us on the rebound when he managed to regained control and took her out for another couple or three attempts. Eventually with Tim, David and a few other guys on the quay shouting instructions they managed to get the boat stern to and tied up. It seems they had problems with the anchor chain not feeding out correctly. At this point neither Mike or Jackie had any input, we were busy literally swabbing the decks. We had run a hose from the shore and filled our water tanks and took the opportunity of the fresh water to wash down the decks. It is surprising how dirty they can get. Mostly dust blown on board when in harbour.

The Captain. A strict disciplinarian.

This sleepy little harbour is not on the general tourist route. The grockle boats seemed to have by passed it. At this time of day it had an innocent charm but later tonight? Who knows, there were berths a plenty. We shall see how many yachts arrive. Literally twenty metres from our stern lay a charming looking Resto called Ellinis. We noticed that they advertised a laundry service.

 

We gathered up all sheets, pillowcases, towels, tea towels and such personal kit that needed washing, counted and listed all items then Tim and Mike walked over and dropped it in their laundry room. An area out back of the resto with a solitary washing machine. Because Tim and I were considered good looking fellows the charge would be E8 per 5 kilo. Before I could ask, we were told if we had been ugly, the cost would have been E10.

The Captain at Ellinis updating the log.

Ellinis resto was one of those blue and white tablecloth restos. Tables facing the boats, good overhead cover and with just the right amount of potted green shrubs to add charm. It looked clean and well kept. Not only was the menu comprehensive but the English speaking owner, his waitress, cum laundry girl and chef were also polite and keen to answer our questions.

We returned to the boat and suggested we go ashore try a beer and check out the Wi-Fi. That occupied another hour. The place was quiet. Charming but quiet.

The afternoon, hot with a gentle breeze was spent under the bimini reading or in Mike’s case catching a few zeds for an hour. It’s tiring this sailing business. 

A short walk around part of the harbour, the other half we can do tomorrow, brought us to the car hire ‘shop’. Now this harbour and village is small. 36*37’.24 N 27*10’.44E. The bike, quad, car hire business is very much a local affair. As we approached the young girl stood up and said ‘Calimira’, Good morning. We replied likewise but as our path took us away onto the North harbour wall she soon sat down again. Business here cannot be that fast. The visiting yachts might offer some half day rental business and there seems to be a few Greek tourists but this lovely harbour of Palon on the Greek island of Nisiros is seemingly a forgotten back water. The larger harbour option is Mandraki a few miles away on the same coastline. Here there is also another caste of the Knights of St John.

 

Returning to the boat Tim was already at ‘our table’ we had booked it earlier, reading from his laptop. We waved at the young girl whom David had named Aphrodite, popped below decks changed t shirts and emerging into the saloon was met by David who had just woken. “Common David, scrans up.” We walked across the road and had a very pleasant meal. Fillet fish with salad and chips for Tim and Jackie, Lamb chops for David and stuffed Calimari with chips for Mike. Callimari here is the whole squid with wings and is a feast in its own right without the stuffing, vine leaves, rice and herbs, salad and chips. E12. About the same as you would pay for maybe a dozen calamari rings in batter at home. The tables started to fill and when we left at 2130hrs there were still people arriving. They closed a little after 2300hrs. David had left shortly before us, he was so tired he was virtually falling asleep at the table we paid for the meal, in cash, E120 their comms for the credit cards was poor!

On board we spent about fifteen minutes in the cockpit, ‘sans alcohol’ before retiring. 

 

The local supermarket.

Fools Afloat. Day 7.

Day 7 Friday 8^th June 2018

We had made arrangements last night for the waterman to top off our tanks at 0700hrs. I was awake about 0600hrs thinking about getting up when the boat started rocking fairly roughly again. Nowhere near as bad as yesterday morning but enough to get me on deck to see what was happening. I could see nothing. However the number of people walking past indicated to me that the Ferry must be in. These Greek ferries which criss cross the islands show little respect for other shipping or any posted speed limits. Their attitude seems to be ‘I’m trying to earn a living, these other boats are just tourists.’ Hence we get woken at Oh Christ Double O by their wash.

0700hrs came and went. No waterman. Whilst Tim went to the port office to see where he was Mike laid out the water hose, connected it to both our stern tank and the tap on shore and turned it on. Checked the water was flowing and turned off again. Not long after the waterman arrived, saw all was connected asked “is that your boat?” “Yes.” And then asked “Why have you not turned the tap on?” “We were told to wait for you.” He shrugged his shoulders. Turned on the tap and cycled away again.

0751hrs. Departed Kos Old Harbour under power. Once outside the harbour we hoisted gib and main and soon had a Gullwing out and were running before the wind. There was a good strong wind for the next couple of hours as we ran South down the coast of Kos. On this side of the island there was little to no habitation. Mike was offered the helm and gladly took it. The wind fairly bowling us along. Six knots being the average but often we were in the upper sevens, touching eights. At one point I managed 9.9 knots a very respectable speed. Tim and David had been sailing for five weeks and had only reached this speed once before when Jane, Suzie’s sister had the helm. Thus I was joint record holder.

There were only two small glitches.

The one that causes me the most embarrassment is when with the boat, running tight to the wind was hit by a sudden, even stronger gust of wind, despite it blowing strong, the boat really started to heel over. We had done this on a few occasions earlier today but this seemed quite violent. I recall squealing like a little girl and shouting “Tim.” He, stood behind the other wheel was glanced down at the Garmin, looked up and immediately grabbed the wheel and put us hard a’larboard, into the wind, the situation was resolved. Lesson. If in doubt face into the wind.

The other occasion was when the wind dropped off as though the ‘fan’ had been switched off. The gib, we had taken in the main at this point, flew to the other side and we turned a complete circle. Most strange.

1230hrs Motor into Kali Harbour. This according to the charts had a very shallow draft. We had 2.1 metres under the keel and so took our entrance with caution. To add to the inconvenience there was a strong wind blowing us. Yes the sails were down but when the engine was placed in slow or neutral the wind took over. Most disconcerting. Eventually we tied up on the furthest side from the tavernas and other moored yachts. We broke out the beer and congratulated ourselves upon what had been a tricky manoeuvre getting alongside. We had also fixed springs.

After a while, sat relaxed, the Coastguard drives up and tells us we will have to move as we are berthed on the cross island ferry point. Politely pointing out there is nothing to indicate this he too shrugs his shoulders and walks away. He expects us to move and of course we do. He has directed us to the side of a sign that says Mary Magdalene. We reverse in and warp up.

 

M and J go ashore to stretch their legs and try to locate a resto for tonight. At some point we enter a gift shop where there were various objects stamped with Donkey logos. T shirts mugs, towels etc. We bought a Donkey bottle opener for Callum. The lady spoke good English and I asked where we might find a good Greek resto selling traditional food. “You want fish chips?” “No, if we wanted Fish and chips we would have stayed in England.” She gave us a card of a resto she maintained she ate in owned by a Greek family and suggested we try there.

Walking back towards the harbour we bumped into Suzie who was off in search of Honey to take home tomorrow as a gift. She was also on the lookout for a taxi rank to organize her cab to the airport tomorrow am. “Tim’s in a bar around the corner.” She said. We found him online on Wi-Fi updating his log. We sat with Tim for a beer for a while before returning to the boat. The Stopportons still restless then decided to walk to Anemos resto on the seafront which had been recommended as a good Greek family restaurant on a recce. As much to locate it in anticipation of tonight’s meal as something to do. This part of town was nowhere near as commercialized as the far side of the harbour. The other side as you walked past a bar you were accosted “Best fish and chips.” “Good burgers.” These statements reinforced by huge plasticised boards with all the combinations available. ‘Blackpool in the Aegean’. We turned a corner and there was Anemos. It looked pretty good. We were welcomed and I asked if we could look at a menu for this evening. Nothing was too much trouble. He named various fishes that had been landed today and would be on the menu. We returned to Chrysanthi.

I had been sat in the cockpit beneath the shade of the bimini updating my diary. My eyes kept closing. Sod it I thought, I would go below and have a snooze. This would be the first time I had taken a nap during the day in the six days we had been aboard. Below in the cabin I switched on the 12v bulkhead fan, the two small ‘portholes’ did not allow that much ventilation, and stretched out on the bed. Just before I dropped off I was joined by Jackie. The time was 1530 hrs.

1700hrs. There was commotion. It was that which brought me to wakefulness. Tim and Suzies voices could be heard. They were explaining to somebody that they had already moved and were told to moor stern on here. There were also loud shouts coming from various other points from within the harbour. I thought it best I go on deck. Emerging, there before me, was a scene of chaos. Three grockle boats with hundreds of tourists on board were staring down upon us. They insisted the mooring we had taken was theirs. Yes. This we agreed, ‘cos it said so on the wall but we were well clear. The coastguard had told us it was OK when he inspected after we moved. There was much shouting now and shrugging of shoulders from all sides, all of this directed at us. The captain of the pirate boat seems to think we have dropped our anchor over his lazy lines. We disagreed but due to the amount of shouting and screaming we thought we might well move.

We motored across to another jetty and settled down once more. Barely thirty minutes had elapsed before the local fishing boats, the smaller ones, started leaving the inner harbour. Then one of the other boats moored behind us started its engine, the skipper, it was only a one man boat, started chatting away to us. He told us we were ok where we were ‘Do not worry.” Now a much larger three crewed fishing boat wanted to come and moor behind us. There was however no drama. He simply slid in behind. Tim and I leapt ashore as the crew threw us bow and stern lines. We made fast around a couple of rings and were immediately made honorary crew members. These guys did not seem to be speaking Greek more Arabic but Tim said he did not recognize the dialect. They soon had a ‘table’ laid out on the aft deck and a fan of something heating through. It was scran time for them.

The journey down today had thrown up a fair amount of salt spray. All on board had showers prior to G+Ts in the cockpit then the short ten minute tab to Anemos Restaurant for dinner. This was a great feast at E100 including tip for five, Last nights in Kos Old Harbour had been E230. It had however been a different location and type of establishment. We sat looking out over the palm fringed beach over the radiant blue waters and gradually watched, between mouthfuls of very good scran, the sun set.

The return journey was via the main avenue of shops and stallholders. Avenue perhaps bestowing upon it a degree of sophistication that might well have been missing but the myriad lights and numerous languages and dialects added a certain something. |Tim stopped off to purchase some new shorts. David walked on and was soon swallowed up in the throng, Mike and Jackie stood outside the shop bemused as Tim spent some considerable Tim looking through the women’s selection before the shop owner directed him towards the men’s rack at the rear of the shop. They walked off giggling.

Now back at the boat, we all seemed to arrive out of the darkness at the same moment. We had a wee nightcap before bed at 2230hrs.