Monday, 18 September 2017

Day Two Harkan River Sweden


0615hrs. Awake.  No rain. We lie there till about 0700hrs. Jackie takes herself off to the loo for a final shower. Mike meanwhile packs away most of the kit and waiting till Jackie returns then strikes the bivvy. Grips and bergans packed we move our kit to the tepee.

A Landrover, canoe and tent. Life doesn't get much better than that!



Beside the reception/shop there is a communal kitchen, fully equipped. Electric kettle, toaster, good work surfaces all very clean and tidy. In the centre of the room sits a dining table and chairs, to one side, attached to a wall was a TV. By the time we arrived in the kitchen the breakfast items were already laid out. Tea, coffee, milk and sugar for a brew, Muesli for cereal and small chapatis, these we would nick name UFO’s which could be toasted and spread with butter and jam as one desired.

Reception at Lits Camp on the right. Kitchen at the end of the ramp.



Breakfast over we gathered outside for a working party. We drew eight grey plastic barrels with lids and a compression ring to hold same on. Into these we would place all the scran that Tim, Johan and Lewis had bought from the supermarket yesterday evening.
Tim who was the expedition chef took charge of the distribution of everything needed to sustain us food wise in the field. In this task he was assisted by Mel as the scribe. Each numbered barrel held certain goods. Some dry, some fresh. Barrel 1 always contained the lunchtime meal. UFO’s, “disc cutters”, a foot wide circular Ryvita bread, cheese, ham, “pink toothpaste”, (Kaviar, a fish paste coloured pink) pickled Herring, salami and occasionally apples or pears. There was usually a fruit juice cordial to add to your water bottle. Into one barrel went seemingly dozens of loo rolls. I assume this was as much a kitchen aid as anything. Who would turn up for a week in the bush and not bring loo roll and wet wipes. Unless they were that hard they would rely upon sphagnum moss for the duration!

0945hrs. With all the barrels now sealed and each numbered barrel logged in Tim’s notebook we could draw BA’s. No not breathing apparatus but buoyancy aids. Paddles were also issued, most opting for the traditional wooden paddle. My only concern about the trip had been the colour of my canoe. I hoped and prayed for a green canoe. Les had for weeks been ribbing me that I was bound to receive a silver aluminium canoe. This had been on my mind to such an extent I thought about carrying a can of olive drab spray with me! As the canoe trailer drove up I was relieved to note all but two canoes were green. The DS (directing staff) were quite sensibly in red canoes. We collected bergans etc from the tepee and loaded the two VW mini-buses with all our kit.

Jackie and Mel inside the tepee.


1025hrs. We set off in the lead vehicle with Uber our driver. He was also I believe the owner of the campsite and the canoe rental company. Before long the rain started again. With Johan in the jump seat, Mike and Jackie in row two and Les, Mel and Maisie in the rear what little enthusiastic conversation there had been at the start soon dwindled as the rain fell, ever more persistent. Uber was at pains to point out the unusual weather front we were experiencing and assured us it would soon pass. The drive took about an hour and thirty-five minutes. Much along hardened gravel roads, trees either side of the road in the main. Occasionally we would gain a little height that gave us a view but all too often we were, according to the map, running parallel with the Harken River. Which remained hidden for the most part and totally out of sight.
1215hrs. GR 3584. We arrived at the put in. Uber with consummate skill reversed the VW and its trailer down to the water’s edge, the bushes impeding his way. It was time to leave the warmth and comfort of the wagon and start earning our pay. Not only was it still raining well but every time we pushed past a bush or knocked into a tree an additional shower of water would further drench us. Our first priority was therefore to don waterproof jackets and trousers. The trailer, unloaded of the eight barrels and bergans emptied from the rear of the VW, Uber drove back up the grass track to allow his son to reverse down with the canoes. Various working parties were formed. All kit was stashed in a mound under a tarp.


Loading the canoes prior to the off.







Boats were carried, dragged to the water’s edge, a difficult task given we had little “beach” to speak of and what existed was either very boggy or down right slippery with algae covered rocks. Others erected a tarp across the track suspended from trees and bushes and Tim opened Barrel 1, the lunch barrel. We managed to all squeeze beneath the tarp, there was plenty of head room even for “Land of the Giants” Les.


The view out over the lake whilst we munched on salami, cheese and UFO’s was somewhat disconcerting. The rain was beating down as hard as ever. The surface of the lake bore testament to that. The thought of climbing into a canoe and paddling off held as much appeal as a soggy Ryvita. It would have been nice to have put our bivvys up, had a brew and turned in but we all knew that was not going to happen.


As motely a crew as ever signed on!

Mentally I thought, “Saddle up we’re burning daylight”. With that Jay and Johan must have realised we could put it off no longer. The tarp was struck, the last of the barrels and bergans loaded and we jumped aboard so to speak. Well crawled cautiously on in my case. Under Jay and Johan’s expert eye we paddled around in this small cove for a while whilst they checked the trim and loading of the canoes. Now satisfied they cast a steely eye about, everyone now with some form of headgear on and hoods up looked their way expectantly. The wind blowing from the North almost drowning out the command, “Let’s paddle”. We were off, headed South, only 90 clicks to go.
Settling into an ‘unsteady’ rhythm, the afternoon passed quickly. Mike, sat in rear and thus supposedly in control of steering with Jackie providing the engine power up front. The rain had not stopped. Sometimes it abated slightly, the sky looking less threatening. Just when you thought it was stopping it would start again with renewed vigour. At every opportunity we bailed out the boats using the huge pieces of sponge that had been issued partly for that purpose and also as knee protection for those purists amongst us who would paddle kneeling in the boat.
Some hours had passed and Johan was now looking for our camp spot for the night. You can, within reason stop and camp virtually anywhere in Sweden, given obvious restrictions, not in someone’s garden or posted fishing sections. However they had a spot mentally pre-selected which seemed to escape our locating it.
At Hotagen GR 3978 in the centre of this huge lake we came upon a series of some ten islands that should have been home for the night but on landing and closer inspection of the ground, it was found to be far too wet and lumpy with the whole island seemingly infested by midges. Despite the weather and desire to put ashore we were all adamant that we would move on in search of a better location. Across on the far side of the lake, the North shore, Jay thought he remembered a spot from a previous trip. Thus we made our way over to the point and landed. I do not imagine that old Chris Columbus could have been happier with landfall!

I can take no credit for this photo. I believe it was Maisies.



Tim, Johan and Jay. First night's bivvy position.




1630hrs. Bivvy One. We landed at GR 397784 on a promontory. Climbing up from the shoreline some 20 metres above the lake we found reasonably level terrain for bivvys, tents and hammocks. To our East along the coast about a click lay the hamlet of Paradisel. Not that you would know it unless you checked the map.
The sky was still grey and foreboding. All around the trees added to a gloomy atmosphere, underfoot good soft, wet moss and lingen berry bushes. The first priority for us “paying guests” was to erect our bivvys. Whilst undertaking this task Jay and Johan started a fire, using bush craft skills that they would demonstrate later to us mere mortals. Remember everything was sodden.
The duty kettle was produced and in no time responding to the shout of “Brew’s up, bring your mugs” bodies appeared from all parts of the bush. Sat on logs and rocks around the fire we had a great view back out up the lake in the direction we had come.
The rain had stopped. Whilst some erected a tripod cut from the surrounding bush upon which to hang the cooking pot, others went in search of timber to feed the fire. For cooking certainly, but as much for warmth and moral as to dry out clothing.  Others formed a chain up from the beach and with Tim reading aloud from his notebook those barrels that needed bringing up for tonight’s meal were unloaded from various canoes and dragged to “the galley”.

Chicken curry and rice. Fantastic.



Steve, tears of joy in his eyes. Or was it the smoke?

2023hrs. All are gathered around the fire eating Tim’s curried chicken and rice. There had been a moment earlier when one of the legs on the tripod holding the “cocklick” cooking pots had given way. Chicken, rice and vegetables had gone everywhere.
Now in the wild, we adopted the ten second rule and scooped much of it back up and threw it into the pot to continue cooking. The rain had turned to a light drizzle but away to the South it had cleared. Let’s hope it holds for tomorrow.
With dinner finished we all huddled around the fire, the smoke was blinding but the warmth generated was most welcome.
Maisie caused some concern as she was feeling very cold and was shivering. She had been late arriving for dinner and was not eating or drinking sufficiently. Her clothes were damp, as indeed where many of the other paddlers. We perhaps more experienced knew what we had to do and took steps. This was Maisie’s first foray into the wild. All gathered around and offered what I hope were words of encouragement. Jay had a spare dry jacket which he passed to her.
It took a large set of ‘cahonies’ to undertake such a trip as this and in the days that followed Maisie was to demonstrate to all she was certainly up there with ‘the boys’ without losing any of her feminine charm. Good on her!

Jackie.


2225hrs. We turned in. The winds picked up quite strongly during the night but no rain.