Bantham to Aveton Gifford Bridge

After our success on Tuesday I was keen to get afloat again. Talking to Les he had heard of a trip up the River Avon from Bantham to Aveton Gifford. This sounded good. The tides would need to be with us as again as we did not fancy being left without water beneath the hull in the river. Another factor was the rip tide at Bantham Beach. “No problem,” says Les. “we’ll launch on the river at the boathouse on the quay.” Now just because Mike had never seen or heard of a Boathouse or Quay at Bantham does not mean it does not exist! Bowing to Les’s superior knowledge about winds and tides we agreed to meet at 78 at 0800 hrs Friday. This would give us plenty of time to load the gear onto my truck and arrive at Bantham with the tide still in our favour.

It’s not that I am a doubting Thomas but I have on so many other occasions been wrong footed by info that certain things in life I feel compelled to check. Well would you Adam and Eve it there is a Quay and Boathouse at Bantham. GR 668437. There was also listed a harbourmaster but he was not answering his phone. I thought we might be able to park near the quay and launch but on reflection thought no.



Quay and Boathouse at Bantham.

We arrived at the carpark and the nice little man after relieving us of £3-50 said we could park just inside the gate to unload the Kayaks and that we were OK to launch on the quay. “The Harbourmaster? You’ve just missed him.” The short but steep descent to the water’s edge where the tide was already dropping would be a bit of a pull up at the end of the day but that was hours away yet. We stowed our trolleys and launched.

0915hrs. The sun was out and the Met had promised us full sun and little or no wind. Wrong again. The sun soon disappeared and the wind sprang up. It stayed with us the whole paddle up to AG bridge. Straight ahead lay Crusoe Villa and Boat House Quay at GR 670447. A beautiful weekend retreat. The Avon, it must be said is a stunning river, even on an overcast day. Trees line the water’s edge on both banks along most of it. Where these peter out, reed beds and wetlands allow for nesting birds and swans. In places you can kayak along under the overhead tree cover with a pretty perpendicular wall of stone beside you. There are very few houses on the water’s edge so apart from a few cows in the fields you really have the river pretty much to yourself. We only saw three others all day on the river, two females out in their canoes and a guy.

A few rock ledges amongst the trees and the odd small beach gave us an excuse to explore for bivvy sites for a return paddle. At GR674459 there was a potential overnight beach but it was closer to AG Bridge and the public slip and car park as well as being pretty fouled with jetsam. A slow trickle of water from the nearby field did not help overmuch with the slightly swampy area and numerous sand-flies. I’m not painting too good a picture here am I?

Back on the kayaks we set off again. Still into wind. At times it seemed we were going nowhere and the thought crossed my mind several times “Do I really need to Kayak under AG bridge?” Well no I don’t but what happens if I never come this way again? Let’s press on. The tide had now well turned and it was difficult to tell which was worse the wind or the tide. None of this helped us but the young man bearing down upon us like an MTB was certainly benefitting. He managed to enquire of us “A bit of a struggle going upstream?”  I realised what the cheeky beggar might have been implying after he had passed.

I gritted my teeth and lent to the paddle. Les who was by now quite some distance ahead and hanging onto a mooring buoy for dear life suggested we might as well turn and head back downstream. I pretended I had not heard him and pushed on.

Now with the bridge in sight the wind dropped to nothing and the sun came out.



Approaching Aveton Gifford Bridge.



1105hrs. A quick photo call under the bridge which carries the A379 from Modbury to Kingsbridge and we could drift back down. At a slower, more leisurely pace. Les suggested we kayak under the other section of the road bridge but we were distracted by the antics of a 4x4 drive Japanese truck. Here the tidal road, marked by large wooden posts showed the direction of the tarmac but not the depth. Our City Slicker had stopped and was wondering what to do? Mike quick as a flash assessed the situation and with a few deft strokes of his paddle was over the road and standing his paddle on end indicated to the driver the depth to be no more than eight inches. He gave me the thumbs up and came on. Shouting “Thanks.” as he passed. I replied with “Should have bought a Landrover.”

Not knowing how much water we would lose to the outgoing tide we headed back towards a potential brunch stop at GR 677451 the old kiln on the edge of Stiddicombe Creek. However it was occupied (by the two ladies in canoes) who like us had the intention of a leisurely lunch. Not wishing to share we pulled for the opposite shore and found a respectable beach upon which we could land that had some shade amongst the trees to protect us from the sun whilst we cooked brunch.

1155 hrs. This was some feast. Not for us a limp lettuce and egg sarnie. We had the makings for a truly royal feast. I had suggested to Les that he brings a burner and mug and we would have a fry up. Whilst I fire up my micro gas burner and start to cook some onions and mushrooms in an old Fray Bentos pie tin Les has produced something akin to an Aga with a range of pots and pans Jamie Oliver would have been proud to own. My Quorn sausages looked pathetic compared with the rashers of bacon Les was cooking in a full sized fry pan.” Les, please don’t contaminate your food with bacon fat for me I’m happy to eat the Quorn sausages.” I said.  I cannot, or will not re-call what Les replied but it was something along the lines of “I am not over-convinced as to the quality and taste of Quorn products in general and their sausages in particular, therefore I need to decline your kind offer on this occasion.”

Les marvelled at my skills with a couple of metal mugs and the old Fray Bentos pan. He swore he had never eaten as well before whilst out and continued to marvel between bites of his bacon and egg banjo. I told Les “That in truth generally if it’s not dehydrated and can’t be prepared in one metal mug stowed in the back of a bergan with my micro burner or over a small open fire I don’t bring it.

He had that look which doubted me! Unbeliever.

 

 

 

1300hrs. Brunch finished we stowed kit and continued downstream. Now opposite the Put In we decided to try to exit the Avon into the sea and kayak around to get nearer to the beach exit point for the car park. A good idea but grounding by Les and the current in the river now pulling me gave us other ideas. As we sped towards the last bend of the river before flowing out towards Burgh Island we decided to run ashore, beach ourselves and carry out a recce. Caution served us well on this occasion. We both decided the surf was too strong and with all the swimmers and other water users out there we did not want to become the afternoon entertainment. We hauled our kayaks up the beach, then up some newly cast concrete steps at Ham End and onto the cliff path on Bantham Ham. After a short 20 metre portage we could break out the trolleys and wheel the kayaks the half mile back to the truck.

Burgh Island in rear.

1400hrs. With everything stowed we headed for home, a spa and a beer.  A brilliant day and one that would need repeating.



 

 

First Outting.

 Now this sounds somewhat like a “coming out party” but I can assure you it is not. I have covered the 9.5 miles down the Tamar from Calstock to Saltash Public Slipway, on many occasions, with Tim in the Klepper and more recently with Les and Jackie in his Canadian Canoe during the last eclipse. The Tamar has the benefit of a push from the ebbing tide and pretty though the scenery is there is nowhere to land. The other disadvantage, as with most river journeys is that you need a crew ashore to drive to drop and collect you. Difficult if wives and girlfriends (WAGS)also enjoy a paddle.

Calstock Public Slip

The Put In. Calstock GR 435685 is a small village on the upper River Tamar. The village has been an important river port since Saxon times. It is dominated by the Grade 2 BR Rail viaduct which stands at 120 ft. high, well 110 ft. at high water. With its twelve 60ft arches, three of the piers have their foundations in the Tamar. It was constructed between 1904-1907 by John Lang. A Liskeard man. It is constructed using 11,148 concrete blocks cast on the Devon bank. I always thought they were granite!

Approaching Calstock Viaduct.

The Kayaks were soon in the water and as the tide had turned this would allow us an easier paddle to Saltash, getting a “push” from the ebb tide. I parked the truck in the free car park. Oh joy. Doubled back along the river bank looking rather fetching in my neoprene trousers and shiny new lime green cag jacket, down the public slip and onto the kayak, a quick push with the paddle and we were away. By the time I managed to get my camera out of my lifejacket I was all but under the viaduct.

The "Shamrock" @ Cotehele Quay.

Within a mile we were passing Cotehele House. This National Trust owned 15^th Century house once owned by Sir Richard Edgecumbe is supposedly one of the least altered structured houses in the land. With its river quay, watermill, estate workshops and woodland walks, it makes for a great day out. So they say. Me? I’ve never been there ‘cept early one morning to launch a canoe in the early winter mist before the staff caught me!

The Tamar is a huge wide snake of a river. Its banks are glutinous mud. For much of the way on the upper stretches it has numerous reed beds. The fields of the steep valleys allow for cattle grazing and in more recent years the growing of grapes on the south facing slopes.

The sun which had graced our start now disappeared behind grey clouds, a head wind sprang up and there was a decided chop to the surface of the water.

I might, for those uncertain about a Sit-On-Top Kayaks design take a few moments to describe it. At some 12ft long it has a moulded hull and deck onto which the paddler sits, legs outstretched as opposed to in or on as a traditional kayak or canoe. There are a couple of storage hatches for a tent, sleeping bag, poncho, scran etc. with a large well deck aft of the “Captains” position. All sounds rather grand but in effect it is a piece of plastic which floats. The Sit-On-Top is therefore “open” to the elements., If the wind gets up and starts throwing water over the bow (pointy bit up front) or beam (one of the two sides) then you’re going to get wet. Thus it is. Here the cautious Kayaker has invested in some wet suit trousers, a shiny new Goretex jacket, neoprene boots, woolly hat, gloves and a PLP (lifejacket). A floating gin palace it ain’t!

The Tamar snaking from side to side offers alternate wind directions and opportunities to catch you unaware with water over bow and beam. The see-saw action of the craft was at first quite novel. Now those of you with any interest in this are thinking “If all this water is coming in how does one get it out?”  Good point. There are things known as scupper holes and through these six holes in the base of the Sit-On-Top the water drains automatically. I know, I couldn’t get my mind around that one either till I saw it in action. Let’s just say it works.

Onward, into the wind and the chop.

Get yer own oggie!

Les suggested a coffee break and we pulled into the lee of an old stone pier at Hole’s Hole GR 430652 The landing here was not the usual Tamar gloppy mud but almost as bad, slippery seaweed and mud covered stones. There was nothing to recommend going ashore. Thus we sat in our craft “rafted up” and drank coffee from my flask and munched on a couple of pasties and Hot Cross buns supplied for us guys by Margaret. The sun re-appeared, warmed us and highlighted how fast the tide was now running. A short distance away lay Weir Quay Boatyard and its pontoon at GR432648. When last we stopped here the owner soon appeared and asked us if we wished to stop to finish our brew and if we were it would be a £10 landing fee. Well you can imagine the end result. Thus we avoided it on this occasion.

Coffee break over we continued downstream. Cargreen was soon upon us. Alas the Spaniards Inn is no more. It has long since ceased trading but has found a new lease of life as a film location. It doubles as The Black Dog Inn for the BBC Daytime Drama TV series The Coroner which has been filmed mainly in the South Hams. However the crew travelled to Cargreen once every three weeks to shoot in the derelict Crooked Spaniards Inn, which provides the set for The Black Dog Inn.

Ahead on the port side we saw 17 arch bridge. This structure bridges the Tavy at this point and carries the railway to Calstock. Another smaller span bridge further down crosses Tamerton Creek. Soon we were at Kingsmill Lake and as the Tamar road bridge and Brunel’s Rail bridge were now in sight we had time for a final landing on the pebbly beach at Neal Point GR 434611. Here we drank the last of the coffee from my flask and stretched our legs. Les found some rather nice pieces of driftwood which he intends to use to frame an old mirror.   The last short distance to Saltash public slip was short but choppy with water again entering the kayak over the bow and from abeam. But by now I had become accustomed to the numerous changes in wind direction and the way this piece of plastic handles. Heading into a strong wind the bow needs to be kept directly head on otherwise the kayak has a tendency due to its reasonably high side and my size quickly  bring its stern around with one needing to overcorrect again to bring on course. With little or no wind the craft tracks well despite its lack of rudder. The rudder is an optional after-market fit if required.

Saltash Public Slip.

At Saltash slip we waited whilst a power boater trailered his boat out up the concrete slip but once ashore whilst I stowed various pieces of kit away Les doubled away with his Triumph Perception on its trolley for home, a short walk up the hill, collected the car and returned to collect yours truly. Back up to home where we washed both kayaks and all gear of any salt water then placed mine back on Les’s car for the short journey to Calstock where we cross decked all of my equipment before heading into The Tamar Inn for a pint and a de-brief before we headed our separate ways home.

 

 

 

 

Mike collects his new Tarpon 120

It was Jackie’s original idea that on collection day from AS Watersports Exeter http://www.aswatersports.co.uk/ we would park at the swing-bridge at Countess Weir GR 940894 and tabb along the canal towards Exeter and the basin, collect the Sit-On-Tops, then canoe back the three miles to the car park, hoick ‘em out, lobb ‘em on the roof and drive home to Plymouth. Brilliant idea. I wish I had thought of that. However we didn’t factor in Jackie breaking her femur and needing a replacement hip! Neither, another significant point, did we think the manufacturer would be late in delivering Jackie’s special order mango coloured kayak!

Thus it turned out that Mike drove to Exeter canal basin on his lonesome, paid over more cash and then lashing the kayak to the roof-rack took away his Lime green kayak and paddle.