Saturday, 27 June 2015

Billy No Mates Day two.


I decided at 07:22 hrs that I would get up. After all it’s all too easy to waste time “lying a-bed”. There was a fair amount of condensation on the underside of the poncho but it had not affected me. I stowed away everything pulled on damp socks and boots. Policed my area and shouldered the bergan, it felt no lighter than yesterday! Stepped out onto the path, took a few quick photos and by 08:00 hrs was tabbing.

Belliver Tor from just besides my bivvy position to the left in the trees.




I’m headed North up this track.

Within less than 25 minutes I had covered the ground to the NP Tourist Information office and Belliver car park. The office was not yet open but the loos were. I thought I might get some fresh water here but they had installed one of those automatic warm water hand spray thingies. No matter there was a stream not far away. Apart from two cars the car park was empty. Well that is apart from two six foot tall penguins with bergans running towards one of the cars! I couldn’t resist and walked over to ask.

They told me they were on a charity walk and had camped at Sittaford last night. Well I’ve yet to see two cleaner looking penguins with dry feet. They both looked a bit “sheepish” so with a “I see lads.” and a nod and a wink I left them to their own devises. As I departed they started whispering to themselves.

Due N was my route for now and along a well-trodden path. The day was fine and sunny. Off to my right on a path that would converge with mine soon I spotted a group of six lads, all carrying bergans. One of the pleasures of Dartmoor can be the solitude and I had visions of these young noisy bucks catching up with me and overtaking. I need not have worried. Despite a slight route detour by me I would stay well ahead of them until I turned off for Sittaford Tor.

Hartyland House GR 644795






The Footpath gate at GR 643793 leading onto the moor.




Delighted at my progress so far, a good path, dry feet and sun at my back I was seduced by the moment and paid too little attention to the direction my footpath was taking me. I was walking away from the river and the footpath that was shown on the left hand side of the river. In part I was conscious of keeping ahead of the boys. I realised my mistake when noticing the walled fields forcing me further off route and potentially up a hill then to descend before climbing again. There was no need of this. My original planned route plotted a gradual walk up the river, with a few minor diversions gradually gaining height before striking off East for Sittaford Tor. Curses. I didn’t want the lads to think I had made a mistake yet the ground to cover if I continued was close packed gorse and very tall tufty grass. (Remember Tosh Evans at school? He would sneak up behind you and stroke your ear and whisper “Do you want to be a member of The Tufty Bunny Tail Club?”  No! Perhaps it was only us good looking boys he was interested in!)

Anyway. I decided to swallow my pride and descended towards the river. By now the lads were only 20 metres back. They had stopped. I thought it might be to witness my embarrassment as I attempted to cross the river. I was across in one single bound like a young gazelle. It seems they had stopped for a rest. Having regained my original route I pressed on. Gradually I lengthened the gap and even had time for a short break where I ate a handful of dried cranberries and raisins washed down by some of Dartmoor’s finest.

As I gained height towards the saddle to the S of Grey Wethers I became aware of three guys off to my right and further uphill walking parallel to my route. They must have been old guys because they were all using walking poles. I was reminded of Three Men in a Boat (To say nothing of the dog) By Jerome K. Jerome. Why? Who knows. That’s just the way things are wired with me.

They reached the saddle ahead of me and were through the open marsh on the saddle before I even realized there was one. I would like to assure you I caught up with them. Which of course I did but by then they were sat on the far side of Sittaford having coffee from a flask and bacon sarnies as Mike heaved into view over the stile. The dog fair flew at me.

I did my best Mick Dundee impersonation. No not the one “call that a knife” but the one with the water buffalo in the center of the road. After a few minutes the dog calmed down. The owner was most apologetic. They engaged me in minor conversation. More I felt out of duty due to the dogs reception. Although they had heard of Ivybridge and seemed impressed that an old fool like me was tabbing alone. It seems they were looking for the newly discovered stone circle “West of here”.

I looked up from my map and said “Oh that one there.” “Yes.” They somewhat awkwardly answered. “Couldn’t have taken much discovery, it’s been there for thousands of years hasn’t it?” I asked. “Yes, that’s what we were thinking.” “I’ll leave you with that one guys, see you.” With a grin I was off due East.

Oops! wrong photo. That’s Linda Kozlowski the actress who also starred in the film with Mick who later married Paul Hogan (Mick) and became Mrs Crocodile Dundee in real life. Mrs Linda Hogan that is. Well she might have continued to use her stage name. Does that make sense? By the way, Jackie has a water bottle just like that.

 

This area is known as Winneys Down. GR 6282.



This part of the moor is that “road less travelled”. For a start there are no roads or paths up here only old shell holes in the peat bogs filled with water. The ground all around is wet and spongy and pretty featureless.

I was North of Statts House, I didn’t see it on this occasion, before long I swung South. Cutting the East Dart River and climbing again up onto the flat featureless tufty waterhole filled terrain that is this area of the moor. Headed due South now I am moving towards Two Bridges, my RV with Pete for transport home. There are however a few more miles to cover yet. Contouring then dropping off the higher part of the moor I find myself at a point were two re-entrants meet and the two streams join. This is a seriously boggy area most times. Today it doesn’t seem too bad. I am wary of the flowering marsh grasses and am following a series of sheep tracks. Unreliable as sheep tracks are for route following they generally do not lead into serious bog. That’s all fine till the tracks stop. Were to now Mike? The route ahead was a definite No No. I’m not back tracking all that distance. As I surveyed a route out of the present predicament. I know I’ll cut through the bog. Sure my feet will get even wetter, remember the water filled shell holes up top? In defence I was nearly finished for the day. I judged I only had about twenty feet to cross to what looked to be fairly solid ground. Checking as best I could I walked into the marsh grass and sank in up to my thighs. This toppled me over forwards I threw out both arms and my arms then went into the bog. It was a bit smelly. Visions of Lawrence of Arabia sprang to mind, when he was stuck in the quicksand. For a while I was unable to get to my feet. I thought I might have to take off my bergan and “swim” out. Not wishing to get totally soaked I grabbed a few extra handfuls of marsh grass and pulled. I managed to get one leg out and fell forward again, grabbed more marsh grass and repeated the procedure and freed my other leg. A couple more manoeuvres like this and I was out. I giggled to myself, the water, which had fortunately not reached my crotch felt somehow quite refreshing. I was soaked but this soon dried out after a while.

Time to move on.  Ahead I could see the granite wall than runs due East from Higher White Tor. I spotted the stile for which I was headed and passing through was soon at Longaford Tor. Here I took a short breather and established comms with Cookie Boy back at Plymouth. There was no reply. I left a message. Ready for pick-up at Two Bridges Hotel. No matter, he would at some point ring back. I sat there and swigged on my water. Across the far side of the valley family walkers were wandering about and in Wistmans Woods about 500 metres below me I could hear children shouting and screaming. Obviously enjoying themselves. That’s the last of the solitude. The phone rang.  Pete Cooke. He’s on his way. We should both get to Two Bridges about the same time. I set off again. Downhill onto the footpath turned left and followed it due South to hook up with Pete at the old disused quarry/car park. I attracted a few glances from the clientele that were dressed in their finest whilst sitting eating and drinking outside at the riverside tables as I made my way to Pete’s car.       Distance covered today app 14 miles.


Pete had a litre of water and a nutty bar waiting for me. I drank the water but passed on the nutty.

We were soon home.

 When I had originally suggested to Jackie that I would not come down to the caravan for “the second” weekend but would go tabbing she was not too concerned. That is until she mentioned it to Tracey. Then they get to talking and before long they have written me off as too old and incapable. They had also conjured up all sorts of scenarios. These ranged from a broken ankle after stepping in a Rabbit hole to never being seen alive again. They insisted I give them data sit-reps of my progress which they would plot on a map, provided by me. Well we all knew this was lip service as the number of places you can get cell coverage on the moor is very few and far between. We, that is to say I agreed and was allowed out to play.

What do I think about it then?

The weather on the Friday, all day till 1600hrs was pretty bad. The photos I have included here do not give an honest picture. They seem to show pretty good vis most of the time. That is not the case it is literally “window snapshots”. The vast majority till certainly 1500 hrs at Combeshead Tor was map and compass using bearings. I had worked these out the previous week and laminated a route card. This definitely helped. Although when you are on your own in these conditions one tends to pay that little bit more attention to the compass.

I am happy with the navigation but cannot believe it took nine and three-quarter hours walking to cover 17.8 miles according to an online map measurement. As I have said it was probably more whilst I minced about. That’s 1.82 miles an hour. In places it was difficult going, in others straight forward.  Carrying about 31lbs didn’t particularly phase me. I felt no strain on back or shoulders. Indeed when arriving at the bivvy position I didn’t feel particularly tired.

The feet were tender. Wet, but then again the previous week I had been suffering from some sort of pain in my left foot beneath the ball of the foot. I put this down to needing new work shoes. I even “excused boots” myself for a couple of days at work this previous week. Am I making excuses? I was confident that the weather would be good. The met check was go and as we know it’s all too easy to make excuses not to do something. Indeed as Jackie says “You’re the past master at that.” She can be cruel at times. I need new boots. Gaiters if taken would have helped on the Friday as well.

I took plenty of rations, lightweight boil in bag stuff, muesli bars some choc, instant porridge etc but ate very little of it. Next time I might well try and leave most of the grub out. Just take dried fruits, the cranberries and dried banana I enjoyed the one half of a snickers bar I had early pm on the Saturday.

Water         1 litre of water weighs 1 Kg or 2.2 lbs. I knew from my route planning where I would be crossing streams so intended refilling water from these. I carried puritabs and as most water tablets for sterilizing these days are set for a litre bottle, carried that size. I do drink a lot of water when out walking and am uncertain whether I took on enough in retrospect. Thinking about it afterwards when I jumped into Pete’s car the litre of water was certainly gone in a relatively short time on the journey home. Was I slightly dehydrated? I experienced no headaches or dizziness.

Conclusion 

I enjoyed it. Then again I’m bound to say that. Strangely enough the solo navigation in the mist I found most rewarding. It has been some time since I have really needed to use these skills and it worked well on the day. The overnight bivvy was great. A couple of steaks over an open fire with a few fellow walkers and a few beers would have made it perfect.

Now there’s an idea!

 

Leg
To
G.Ref
Bear M
Dir
Mile
Acc
Time
T Act
Notes
 
The Mews
 
nr
 
 
 
 
07:47
 Move out
1
The Beacon
654577
nr
NE
0
1.09
 
08:26
Cannot see Beacon from Moorgate
2
Ugborough B
667591
nr
NE
1.41
2.5
 
09:15
Cannot see anything Mist. Which way?
3
Glasscombe
663610
6135
NNW
1.25
3.75
1hr56m
10:12
Slightly clearer in valley bottom.
4
Petras Settle
662634
6395
N
2.37
6.12
 
11:14
Tall ferns no settle visible!
5
Wall/Re-entrant
668658
305
NNE
1.48
7.6
3hr18m
12:30
At river junc
6
Hickaton Hill
672665
585
NNE
0.5
8.1
 
 
from river use wide 2MW path
8
Pupers Hill
673674
115
N
0.45
8.55
 
13:20
Rough going Mist +rain again
9
Tin Workings
673697
35
N
1.54
10.09
 
 
Mist. Barely see Vennford.
10
Combestone Tor
670718
6275
NNW
2.47
12.56
4hr48m
15:00
 
11
B3357 Rd Tk Junc
660735
nr
NW
1.81
14.41
5hr30m
 
 
12
Corner wood
646760
2685
NW
1.66
16.07
6hr10m
 
 
13
Belliver Tor
644764
 
NNW
1.1
17.8
 
17:20
via Laughter Tor
14
Bivvy Position
646769
 
N
 
 
 
17:30
 Total time tabb 9hrs45m
15
Bivvy Position
646769
N
08:00
07:22 reveille 08:00 move out
16
Postbridge  junc
646788
nr
N
1.1
 1.1
 
08:26
17
Y river bend
640800
nr
NNW
0.78
 1.88
 
 
 
18
Sittaford Tor
633831
nr
N
2.3
4.18 
 
10:45
639814 refill h2o puritabs 09:43
19
East Dart River
621825
3900
SW
1.45
5.63 
 
 
Winneys Down. Boggy shell holes.Rough
20
Browns House
614798
3550
SSW
0.92
6.55 
 
 
V Low Ruin
21
Stone wall
614786
3200
S
1.25
7.8 
 
13:15
Use stile to x
22
Longaford Tor
616779
3040
SSE
0.5
8.3 
 
13:35
13:35-13:53 Establish comms.Good sig.
23
Wistmans Wood
612775
3740
SW
0.5
8.8 
 
 
Tourists on tracks now.
24
Two Bridges Pub
609750
nr
S
1.66
10.46
 
14:40
Well marked path.Tot time tabb 6hr40m